These ingredients will transform your skin (and you probably have them in the house)
The world of beauty can be lightening paced, with new hi-tech formulations appearing what feels like weekly, but one skin saviour has survived millennia – and that’s the humble oil. Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics and burial sites depict that early tribes used a variety of plant-based oils in their bathing rituals, including castor, olive, sesame and moringa oils.
“Botanical oils have been used for thousands of years across the world to protect, moisten and nourish the skin,” says medical herbalist and renowned skin expert, Dr Mariano Spiezia of InLight Beauty. “They’re an excellent natural source of skin-loving nutrients such as essential fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.”
Oils are capable of feeding, hydrating, treating, calming, and even cleaning our skin, but how can something so basic rival the latest sci-fi serum? It has a lot to do with something called biocompatibility. Much of our skin is made up of lipids very similar to the anatomy of oil, and therefore readily accepts it.
“Skin is impermeable, so water-based products evaporate, rather than penetrate the deeper layers with nutrients. Oils are also water-free so there’s no dilution and no need for synthetic preservatives,” explains Dr Spiezia.
There’s an oil for everyone, inclusive of age and ethnicity
The recent trend of multiple skincare steps adopted from Eastern cultures has left a lot of us with confused complexions, suffering from serious product overload.
“People go overboard with products, creating problems they then need to correct by using further products. Many dry out the skin and then require others to replenish it,” explains Micaela Nisbet, oil worshipper and founder of indie skincare brand Neighbourhood Botanicals.
She heralds from the Australian hippie beach culture of surfing every day with hair soaked in almond oil and bodies drenched in plant oils. “We need to scale back and oils are a sure, natural route to rectifying the problems we’ve created.”
Super seeds and flower power
Oils can be split into two identifiable camps with very different properties; vegetal/plant oils and essential oils. Plant oils are naturally derived from the fatty parts of the plant such as seeds, kernels, nuts and fruits. They are rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins, the most common you’d see being sweet almond oil, rosehip oil, sesame seed oil and jojoba seed oil.
These vegetal oils have cascading levels of penetration according to their molecular weights. Sunflower is one of the lightest with a very quick absorption rate, then sweet almond is the next lightest, followed by sesame seed oil then rosehip oil, all the way down to avocado oil, which is thick and super rich so very slow to absorb.
On the other side are essential oils. These are extracted from the flowers, leaves, bark and roots and are not typically oil-like or greasy at all as they don’t contain fatty acids. Made up of hundreds of molecules, essential oils have the chemical structure of gas, so are extremely volatile and don’t remain still, which means they readily evaporate.
Although essential oils do not treat the skin, you’re unlikely to use an oil that smells bad, so they play a crucial part in product experience. More than just a pretty smell though, essential oils also stimulate the neuro-olfactory receptors in the nose, reducing stress and anxiety and even improving the quality of sleep.
Unlike plant oils, which are squashed and pummelled to extract the oil, essential oils are artfully distilled. Steam is put through petals and then cooled down again into water, where essential oils and water separate over a matter of hours.
“In skincare, we hold essential oils in vegetal oils in an anchorage technique that brings nutrients into the skin. Essential oils have to be dissolved in vegetal oils as they’re super potent and too strong for skin,” explains Catherine Corcoran, global training manager for botanical skincare brand Darphin Paris.
What we apply to the skin is just as important as what we put in our bodies
So how do you go about navigating oils and working out which is right for you? It’s not necessarily love at first drop. “You don’t love an oil at first” says Corcoran. “It’s said that oils are alive, so they take time to get to grips with skin and for the two to become in tune with each other. It also takes time to work out how to apply an oil and find out how much you need.” The key is to find a balanced combination of oils that matches your skin type.
Oils are made up of short-, medium- and long-tailed fatty acid molecular chains. Short chains create a dry oil that sinks in straight away but won’t give long-term moisturisation, whereas long-chain oils, such as olive oil and shea butter, are super nourishing but can be too heavy and easily clog the skin. Using a mix of short-, medium- and long-chain will be swiftly absorbed but also provide long-term benefits.
And what if you’re an oily type who’s understandably nervous of slicking on the shine? The biggest myth surrounding oil is that oily skin types can’t use facial oils, when in fact these oils are expert at regulation. In the past, many of us have been coaxed into skincare products boasting ‘oil-free’ labels, on the false assumption that oily skin is best starved of oil, but this has proved to be completely untrue (plus it’s actually nigh on impossible to make a skincare product that is oil-free).
Oily skin, put somewhat playfully, is when you’ve got some over-enthusiastic sebum glands. So intuitive are our bodies that when we deprive them of oil, the brain automatically sends signals to produce even more sebum (oil). It may feel counter-intuitive but the way to solve this is by adding oil, because only in applying oil topically can we slow down our own natural production.
General opinion is that there’s an oil for everyone, inclusive of age, ethnicity and skin type. Facial oils fortify and repair the skin barrier, prevent trans-epidermal water loss, feed nutrients to new skin cells, improve circulation and even reduce breakouts through being antibacterial and antiseptic on the skin.
What’s more, oils span the seasons; in winter they stop skin from drying out in the cold and in summer from blasting air conditioning. “Hydration is the foundation of all skincare and that’s what oils do best,” says Corcoran.
However, it’s crucial to research and select the right oil for you. Dr Sophie Shotter is an award-winning aesthetic doctor and hormone specialist who urges her patients to be more tactical in their approach to oils. “When it comes to oils, you really need to know what you’re doing and how to choose the right one, otherwise your quest for smoother, more hydrated skin could lead to your skin being clogged and irritated.”
She advises ensuring that your oil isn’t too heavy for your skin and that sensitive skins stay away from those packed with essential oils such as potent citrus, rose and lavender oils, which can cause inflammation. In her expert opinion, the place for oils is either for ingredient stability, (an excellent example is vitamin C, which often comes as an oil), or for people who get transient seasonal dryness.
“Using a non-fragrant plant oil can be useful underneath a moisturiser to decrease trans-epidermal water loss, but I would always seek expert advice on whether slotting an oil into your skincare steps could be helpful for you.”
Pure logic
When it comes to choosing oils, purity is paramount: “What we apply to our skin is just as important as what we put in our bodies. In fact, many ingredients are partially absorbed into our system through the epidermis and interact with it. The purer the better for both our wellbeing and the environment,” explains Dr Spiezia.
Using cold-pressed oils is important to maintain the integrity of the ingredient, both chemically and energetically. The gold standard of oils will be cold-pressed, food grade and certified 100 percent organic. Look for certifications such as Cosmos Organic and Positive Luxury ‘Butterfly Mark’ for transparency.
Another top tip is to shop small. “Big commercial brands work on mass-scale production and such vast quantities mean that their products have a prolonged shelf life. Pure oils are usually only able to last a year, so this means preservatives and filler ingredients have to be added,” says Micaela Nisbet. Small, independent brands are likely to offer cleaner formulations, although the price tag and shorter shelf-life will usually reflect this.
How to apply an oil
Start with a few drops in the palm of your hand and warm them by rubbing the oil between your hands. Always inhale an oil first; it’s an experiential product. Cup your nose, close your eyes and inhale deeply three times. Smooth it all over your face moving in upwards and outwards sweeping motions to the lymph nodes by your ears and finish by pressing on the collarbones to rid the body of toxins.
Oils by skillset
- Chamomile brings down blotchiness
- Rose cures dehydration
- Neroli is great at purifying oily skin
- Orange Blossom reduces redness
- Jasmine is texture smoothing and instils radiance
- Grapeseed fades out unwanted pigmentation and scars
- Tangerine energises tired skin suffering from dullness
- Wheatgerm is rich enough to nourish even the thirstiest of mature skins
Where do oils fit in your routine?
Apply before or after moisturiser? Use day or night? Here’s the lowdown on when to harness oil-power.
Oils can be used in any part of your skincare regime. First off, they’re great as cleansers because like attracts like and oil will shift oil. This means that any make-up residue or daily impurities can be given the heave ho gently but effectively with a sweep rather than a scrub. Those micellar waters we’ve all grown so loyal to in recent years are, in fact, oil droplets suspended in water.
Oils can help with specific problems, too; inflammation, dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles can all be treated with specialist oils. A light facial oil, or so-called ‘dry oil’, will sink into skin quickly and hydrate it for a good few hours, making it an excellent base for make-up. What’s more, if you’re a runner or someone who likes to work out in the great outdoors, applying a facial oil before heading out will protect your skin from the elements and won’t evaporate, leaving you exposed.
Whereas a heavier, long-chain oil makes for a gorgeously rich night-time treatment for the ultimate beauty sleep.
But does beauty sleep actually exist?
We know that a good night's rest is essential for our mental and physical wellbeing, but is there really such a thing as 'beauty sleep'?
Words by Melissa Kimbell
With one third of Britons now averaging just five hours sleep each night, it’s no wonder that sleep is always on our mind these days. From exhausted mums comparing bedtime battle stories, to those whose minds race when they hit the pillow, good sleep is the one gift that everyone wants.
It’s well known that poor sleep has numerous negative effects on the body. These can include headaches, drowsiness, lowered immunity and irritability, and a lack of good quality sleep can also speed up the ageing process.
“The body goes through five distinct sleep stages, from light to deep sleep, and then finally dream sleep,” explains insomnia specialist, Kathryn Pinkham (theinsomniaclinic.co.uk). “A combination of all of these stages in sequence, repeated several times during the night, is required for a good night’s sleep. The ageing process can accelerate when this sequence is interrupted, especially during the later stages when the body is healing itself,” she adds.
The dream sleep stage is when all the beauty magic happens – during this stage, the body has a surge of Human Growth Hormone (HGH). HGH helps rebuild and repair body tissue, as well as increase cell production.
This cellular regeneration cycle takes on average 28 days, peaking each night at 2am, and is said to be the key to glowing skin. Old cells tend to be rough and dehydrated, causing the skin to look crinkly, but these new cells will always look more radiant, smooth and plump – something that many of us search for in our beauty shopping trips.
A poor night’s sleep also causes the body to produce higher levels of cortisol (a stress hormone), which can affect your skin. Studies suggest that high levels of cortisol cause inflammation in the body and decrease the production of collagen, which is what makes young skin bouncy and plump.
The dream sleep stage is when all the beauty magic happens
“Collagen is a protein that makes up approximately 75 to 80 percent of the dermis [the inner layer of the two main layers of cells that make up our skin],” says Dr Prerna Mittall (inspiremeclinic.co.uk). “Our skin looks younger when collagen is sufficiently topped up.”
When collagen breaks down, skin starts to sag and lose its suppleness. This occurs gradually as skin ages, so it can’t be completely avoided, but there are a few things that will speed up this process – frequent poor sleep quality is one of them.
So, how can we improve the quality of our sleep? If you have no trouble falling asleep then simple solutions, such as setting a bedtime and switching off from screens an hour before bed, can make a huge difference. But if you can’t drift off? Kathryn advises a structured routine to help boost our ‘sleep drive’ – our appetite for sleep – because when it comes to sleep, it’s quality over quantity.
Rather than aiming for the eight-hour gold standard, and spending half of that time tossing and turning, Kathryn suggests that it’s all about balancing our sleep drive and our ‘sleep window’. “Use a diary to keep track of how much good quality sleep you are actually getting. This number is your sleep window,” she explains.
“For example, if you can get six hours of unbroken sleep, then your sleep window should be around six hours – 12am-6am, for instance. This means that from 6am-midnight the following day, you are awake and building a strong, healthy sleep drive. Stick with this routine seven days a week.” By creating a solid routine, your body will learn when to be asleep and when to be awake, which will then help you to settle into snooze-mode more quickly and easily.
Sometimes, however, getting more quality sleep simply isn’t possible. Whether it’s night-time breastfeeding, working a night shift or a big night out that’s cutting into your beauty sleep, thankfully the right skincare techniques can help to maintain a healthy glow whatever life throws your way. Read on for beauty expert Melissa’s top recommendations...
Get the glow
Melissa's top tips for bright skin, even when sleep has been scarce:
Exfoliate
Dead surface cells make skin look rough and dry, so exfoliate a few times a week to reveal the new ones underneath. Products using simple ingredients, like raw honey (contains natural glycolic) or mildly granular clays, rice flours or coconut milk powders will slough away dead skin cells without over-drying the skin, and are gentle enough to use frequently.
Drink up
We lose half a litre of water each day, without taking exercise into consideration. Nutritionist Sandra Greenbank (www.sandragreenbank.com) suggests drinking plenty of healthy fluids, like herbal teas and water, to keep skin cells plump and glowing. Dr Prerna recommends including fruits with a high-water content in your diet, such as melon or grapes.
Lock in moisture
Once you’ve hydrated, it’s important to keep your skin that way. A night cream that contains beeswax will help lock-in moisture; also look for skincare ingredients that are naturally high in essential fatty acids and vitamin C, such as hemp oil or Sea Buckthorn. Sandra suggests eating plenty of Vitamin C-rich foods too. “Vitamin C supports collagen formation, as well as functioning as an antioxidant to protect the skin, so include veggies like broccoli, red peppers and spinach in your diet daily,” she advises.
Boost collagen
The jury is still out on exactly how effective collagen supplements are. “They may help improve skin health, but not because the collagen is delivered intact to the skin – it will be broken down into amino acids by the process of digestion,” says Sandra. She recommends eating a complete food, like homemade bone broth, as a reliable source.
Enjoy a better night's sleep with Gathered
If you're looking for more tips and tricks for how to drift off, check out these science-backed strategies for a restful night.
