While we thoroughly check every pattern, mistakes do occasionally happen, so here you'll find any Simply Crochet pattern corrections.
We'd always recommend checking here before you get started on any project, especially if you're looking to purchase a lot of yarn for larger projects.
If you've found a problem that isn’t listed, please do let us know by emailing us at simplycrochet@ourmedia.co.uk.
To help us with your query please include the issue number, pattern name, the size you are making (if applicable), the yarn you are using and any other details that may help us to investigate the problem.
Use the links below to jump to the issue you're looking for or scroll down to browse issue.
Correction - Issue 148
Amigurumi Zebra – Pages 47-50
The yarns listed are incorrect. The yarns used are:
- Scheepjes Truly Scrumptious (110g/108m)
- 3 balls of Yarn B Buttercream Icing (302)
- Scheepjes Chunky Monkey (100g/116m)
- 2 balls of Yarn A Smoke (2019)
- 1 ball of Yarn C Hot Pink (1257)
- 1 ball of Yarn D Neon Green (1259)
- 1 ball ofYarn E Yellow (2008)
Alternatively, you can substitute and DK weight yarn into this project.
Correction - Issue 146: Sock Special pattern collection
Lacy Knee-Highs - page 14
The hook size listed at the top of the page is incorrect. The hook sized used on this project is a 2mm hook.
Correction - Issue 142
Modern Christmas Cushion – pages 22-23
Please use updated charts for Cushion. Work Rows 1-7 from Chart A and Rows 8-24 from Chart B, working in pattern to end.
Correction - Issue 140
Cat Cushion - page 24
There is an error in the Tail. It should be worked as follows:
TAIL
Using a 4mm hook and Steel, make a magic loop.
Rounds 1 Ch1, 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 dc]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 dc]
Rounds 5-6 Dc in each st around.
Change to Silver.
Rounds 7-41 As Round 4, changing to Steel at end of Round 12, Silver at end of Round 18, Steel at end of 24, Silver at end of Round 30 and Steel at end of Round 36.
Continue with Steel.
Round 42 Dc in each st around, ss to beg dc.
Fasten off.
Correction - Issue 139
Granny Square Tank - pages 39-42 The crosses have been omitted from the diagram published. Refer to the diagram below when working the widening rows.
Correction - Issue 138
Good Vibrations Throwover – pages 43-45
The labels on the schematic are incorrect. The horizontal arrow should be labelled ‘a’ and the vertical arrow should be labelled ‘b’
Correction – Issue 135
Crochet Edits: Yarn Cake Makes (Bonus pattern booklet) - Pineapple stitch shawl, page 10.
There is an error in Row 8. It should read as follows:
Row 8 Ss in first ch-2 sp, ch3, (tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in same sp, *ch3, (dc in next ch-1 sp, ch3) 3 times, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch3, (2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in v-st shell; rep from * across to final ch-2 sp, (tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-sp, turn.
Correction – Issue 133
Crochet Edits: Shape up (Bonus pattern booklet) – pages 3-4
The final row on the Rectangles has been omitted. It should be worked after the final Row 4 repeat.
Final row Ch2 (counts as htr), htr in next 2 sts 2 rows below, (dc in next 3 sts, htr in next 3 sts 2 rows below) rep across to end. Fasten off.
Correction Issue 132
Crochet Edits: Cosy Crochet Makes (Bonus pattern booklet) – pages 13-14.
There is an error in the instruction on Round 5, it should read as follows:
Round 5 Change to Yarn B, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, change to Yarn C, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, change to Yarn A, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, change to Yarn C, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, change to Yarn B, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, change to Yarn A, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. [30 dc]
Correction Issue 131
Peacock Jumper – pages 41-44
SQUARE Row 5 should read: Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip next tr, (tr in next st, ch1, skip next tr) to corner ch-2 sp, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in corner, skip next tr, (tr in next st, ch1, skip next tr) to last tr, tr in last tr, turn. [14 tr and 10 ch-1 sps, corner ch-2 sp]
Once you have completed Row 6 the instructions should read: Work 0 (1: 2) more rows as Row 6. [26 (28: 30) dc and corner ch-2 sp]
On the Triangle the stitch count at the end should read: Work 0 (1: 2) more rows as Row 4. [30 (34: 38) dc, ch-2 sp]
Issues 130 - 121
Correction Issue 1130
Winter Cardigan – pages 26-29
When repeating Rows 2-14 the first time, if two colours are used in a row the order they are used should be swapped.
For Row 14, when repeating Row 2 you need to work the first 3-tr group with Yarn B and the second with Yarn A, repeating across. When working the repeat a second time work in colour order set. Then when working the repeat a third time work with the colour orders switched.
Correction Issue 127
Crochet Edits Beautiful Blankets Pattern Booklet, pages 23-25
There is an error in Row 14. It should read as follows:
Row 14 (WS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch-1 sp), skip next tr, (tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 tr) 11 times, 25tr, *ch1, skip 1 tr, (tr, ch1, skip 1 tr) 11 times, 25tr; rep from * once more, tr in last st, turn.
Correction Issue 125
Alpaca Ripple Jumper, pages 25-28.
Row 4 on the Back Joining and on both Fronts should be worked in Wine and not Parchment.
Correction Issue 124
Lifebouy wreath – page 24
The pattern for the Fish is incomplete. Work Row 1 as written then:
Row 2 Turn to work in opposite side of foundation ch, dc in first ch, htr in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, htr in next 2 ch, dc in final ch, ss to first dc from Row 1, turn.
Row 3 Ch5, dc in second ch from hook, htr in next ch, tr in next ch, 2dtr in final ch.
Fasten off.
Place two Fish pieces together with RS facing out and dc around the edges to join.
Seaside Blanket - pattern page 24, chart page 95
It has come to our attention that rows 17-20 on the chart were incorrect. Please see the correct rows below (please note, this revised chart only the first pattern repeat, but the same applies for all following repeats too.
Correction Issue 122
Talavera Cal – pages 61-63
The tension stated on the pattern is incorrect. Although tension is not critical for the Blanket, Rounds 1-7 should measure approx 15cm in diameter.
Lace top – pages 46-47
There is an error on the last round of the Half Hexagon for sizes M, L and XL. The final round should end with:
Size M - (Dtr, ch1, dtr) in final st Size L - (Ttr, ch1, ttr) in final st Size XL - (Dttr, ch1, dttr) in final st
Hook to Hook - Jenny Loved It Belt, page 56.
Row 7 should read: Ch2, ltr in next 7 sts, *(ch1, skip 1 st, tr in next st) 3 times, ltr in next 6 sts; rep from across to last 5 sts, ltr in final 5 sts, turn.
Issues 120 - 111
Correction Issue 120
Striped Blanket p64
The yarn listed comes in 10g/26m balls and not 25g/68m. One Scheepjes River Washed and Stonewashed Colour Pack is enough to make the blanket. You will need to have 5g of yarn left after completing the first row of the blanket in order to work a second row in this colour.
Dragon Toy p35
On the Wings, the stitch count at the end of Row 9 should read 21 sts.
Heart Motif Waistcoat p48 (referring to the chart on p96)
There is a mistake in the printed chart, here is a corrected version.
Issue 120 Edits Supplement - Hexi Cardi p10-12
HEXAGON MOTIF - ALL SIZES
Rounds 2-3 Ch3, *tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp; rep from * around ss to top of beg ch-3, turn. [36 sts, 6 ch-2 sps]
Round 4 stitch count should read [48 sts, 6 ch-2 sps]
HEXAGON MOTIF - SIZE XL ONLY
Round 5 stitch count should read [60 sts, 6 ch-2 sps]
HALF HORIZONTAL HEXAGON - ALL SIZES
Rows 2-3 Ch3, *tr in each st to ch-2 sp,(1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp; rep from * to end, turn. [20 sts, 3 ch-2 sps]
Row 4 stitch count should read [26 sts, 3 ch-2 sps]
HALF HORIZONTAL HEXAGON - SIZE XL ONLY
Round 5 stitch count should read [32 sts, 3 ch-2 sps]
HALF VERTICAL HEXAGON - ALL SIZES
Rows 2-3 Ch4, tr in ch-1 sp, *tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp; rep from * across to final ch-1 sp, (tr, ch1) in final ch-1 sp, tr in final st, turn. [20 sts, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]
Row 4 stitch count should read [26 sts, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]
HALF VERTICAL HEXAGON - SIZE XL ONLY
Row 5 stitch count should read [32 sts, 2 ch-2 sps, 2 ch-1 sps]
QUARTER HEXAGON 1 - ALL SIZES
Row 2 Ch3, tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each st to ch-1 sp, (tr, ch1) in ch-1 sp, tr in final st turn. [8 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
Row 3 Ch4, tr in ch-1 sp, tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each st to end, turn. [11 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
Row 4 stitch count should read [14 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
QUARTER HEXAGON 1 - SIXE XL ONLY
Row 5 stitch count should read [17 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
QUARTER HEXAGON 2 - ALL SIZES
Row 2 Ch4, tr in ch-1 sp, tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each st to end, turn. [8 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
Row 3 Ch3, tr in each st to ch-2 sp, (1tr, ch2, 1tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each st to ch-1 sp, (tr, ch1) in ch-1 sp, tr in final st turn. [11 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
Row 4 stitch count should read [14 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
QUARTER HEXAGON 2 - SIZE XL ONLY
Row 5 stitch count should read [17 sts, 1 ch-2 sp, 1 ch-1 sp]
Issue 117
Iguana pattern from Endangered Animals Calendar/Supplement.
One yarn has been omitted from the You Will Need List. This should also include a small amount of Buttercup (771).
Issue 115
Dog Stocking p57.
There is an error on the foot section. Round 7 should read: (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 15 times. [45 sts]
Issue 114
Zigzag Cardi, p44-48
The instructions after Row 7 of the Divide for Right Front Shaping pattern should read as follows:
Following colour sequence for Front, work Rows 5 and 3 of main stitch patt without shaping Rep (Rows 1-7 of shaping and Rows 5 and 3 of main stitch patt) a further 2 (2: 2: 3: 3) times. [17 (20: 23: 23: 26) sts, 27 (27: 27: 36: 36) rows from start of divide]
Size 12 only: Rep Rows 1-7 of shaping, fasten off. [20 sts, 34 rows]
All sizes: Beg with Row 5 of main patt, cont in main patt for a further 1 (3: -: 0: 3) rows. [28 (30: -: 36: 39) rows] Fasten off.
This will need applying to the Left Front shaping instructions in the same way.
Issue 112
Magic Carpet Throw Crochet-Along
We have noticed that there is a small error in the key labels on the Inset Mosaic Pattern 3 chart. The green squares should be Yarn B2 (Bottle Green); and the cream square should be Yarn A (Arctic White).
Baby Blanket - p54-55
For Round 7 and for all Round 7 repeats you should work a BPhtr rather than a FPhtr as listed
On Round 9 you should join the yarn into the fourth st across any side. At the end of each side the final popcorn should be worked into the fourth st before the corner.
Issue 111
Magic Carpet Throw Crochet-Along
Unfortunately both of the charts in for the magic carpet CAL in issue 111 are incorrect. We would like to make clear that the written instructions and the colour placement in the charts are correct, however some of the symbols are missing or in the wrong place. We would also like to make it clear that this was a mistake by the Simply Crochet team, and not by the designer Rosina Plane. We sincerely apologise for the inconvenience, and you can find the correct charts below.
Issues 110 - 101
Issue 110
Magic Carpet Throw Crochet-Along
There is an error in Row 5 of Overlay Mosaic Pattern 1. It should read as follows:
Row 5 Join Yarn C with standing dc in first st, dc in next st, * 2dcbl, FLtr2d, 2dcbl, FLtr2d, 2dcbl; rep from * to last 2 sts, 2dc.
Issue 109
Rainbow Stripe Shawl, p.47
There is an error in Row 13, it should read as follows:
Row 13 Ch3, tr in next st, ch1, skip ch-1 sp, 2tr in next st, cluster, (skip 1 st, tr2tog next 2 sts, cluster) rep to final ch-1 sp, skip ch-1 sp, tr in final 2 sts, turn.
Issue 108
Granny Motif Jumper – page 32.
The stitch count at the end of Round 11 should read: [Corner group, 18 ch-1 sps, 17 tr]
For Round 12 treat all ch-1 sps and trebles as stitches. The 3-tr groups will alternate between being worked in a treble stitch and a ch-1 sp.
Easter Supplement – page 6.
There is an error in the Leg section. Rows 14-22 should read as follows:
Rows 14-22 Dc in each st around.
Row 23 Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts. [20 sts]
Issue 105
Zen Collection, Mandala, page 22.
A round of instructions have been omitted from the pattern. Work the pattern as shown to the end of Round 21 then work the following 2 rounds:
Round 22 Ss into ch-5 sp, (dc in ch-5 sp, ch5) rep around, ss to beg dc.
Round 23 Ss in next ch-5 sp, (beg 3-tr cl, ch2, 3-tr cl, ch2, 3-tr cl) in ch-5 sp, (3-tr cl, ch2, 3-tr cl, ch-2, 3-tr cl) in each ch-sp around, ss to beg cl.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Issue 104
Diamond Jumper page 46
There is an error on Row 2 of Back. It should read as follows:
Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in next dc, *ch3, skip next dc, dc in next dc) 3 times, skip next dc, tr in next 3 dc; rep from * to end, turn.
Issue 103
Baby Suit, page 51
There is an error in the instructions for Sizes 3MTHS and 18MTHS Only on Body section. The row instruction should read as follows: Next row Ch3, 10 (13) tr, tr2tog, (11 (14) tr, tr2tog) 5 times, tr in each st to end, turn.
Christmas Mice p37
There is an error in the Elf Hat pattern. Rows 22-28 should read as follows:
Rows 22-28 As Rounds 10-16 of Reindeer Hat.
Issue 101
Boxy Top, p.40-43
Unfortunately the yarn quantities for Yarn A were missing from the table. Please refer to the table below for complete yarn quantities.
Child's button-up jumper, p.51-53
There is an error in the Main Sleeve section. Due to a layout error a line from the pattern has been omitted from the instructions directly after row 5 (we have highlighted the missing line in bold).
Last 5 (4: 4: 5: 5) rows set increase patt. Rep increase patt 1 (2: 2: 2: 3) more times. [28 (32: 34: 36: 38) sts] Work 0 (1: 3: 4: 4) more rows as Row 2. Rep Row 2 (2: 5: 5: 5), then Row 2 once more. [28 (32: 36: 38: 40) sts, 16 (19: 21: 25: 30) rows of Main Sleeve] If you need to make the Sleeve slightly longer, which might be needed to fit a 4yr old, then add extra rows of Row 2 at this point.
Issues 100-91
Issue 100
Granny Blanket - p58-61
There is an error on the Granny and Gramp Squares. The correct instructions for the Granny Square are written below. Use this pattern with the appropriate colours for the Grampy Square.
Change to Shamrock.
Round 6 Ch1 (counts as a dc), dc in next 2 sts, *htr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, 2tr in next st, ch2, 2tr in next st, tr in next 2 sts, htr in next st, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * 3 times more omitting final 3 dc, ss to top of beg ch-1. [68 sts, 4 ch-2 sps] 17 sts each side Fasten off.
Join Blossom in a ch-2 sp.
Round 7 Ch3 (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in same sp, *(ch1, skip 1 st, 2-tr cl in next st) 8 times, ch1, skip next st, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more omitting final corner, ss to top of beg ch-3. [56 sts, 36 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps] Fasten off.
Join Surf in a ch-2 sp. Round 8 Ch3, (2tr, ch2, 3tr) in same sp, ch1, skip 3 sts, (3-tr cl in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next st) across to ch-2 corner sp, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in ch-2 sp; rep from * 3 times more omitting final corner, ss to top of beg ch-3. [60 sts, 40 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Issue 99
Halter Top, page 23
There is an error in Rows 3-5 of the Top section. Please use the instructions below:
Round 3 Ch3, tr in same st, tr in next st, (2tr in next st, 1tr) 7 times, turn. [24 sts]
Round 4 Ch3, tr in same st, tr in next 2 sts, (2tr in next st, 2tr) 7 times, turn. [32 sts]
Round 3 Ch3, tr in same st, tr in next 3 sts, (2tr in next st, 3tr) 7 times, turn. [40 sts]
Maxi Cardigan, p43-45
The Shell pattern has an error where an extra ch2 sp has been written. The Shell pattern should read as follows:
Row 1 Shell in next shell, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp, tr in next 4 (5: 6: 7: 8: 9) tr, ch2, skip ch-2 sp, shell in next st.
Carnaby Cal Part Seven, pages 51-52
On Rounds 2-3 all corner spaces should be worked as ch3, and not ch2. Instructions should read as follows:
Round 2 Ch3, (tr in sp before next sp) twice, *(2tr, ch3, 2tr) in corner ch-3 sp, skip next st, (tr in sp before next st) twice; rep from * two times more, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in final ch-3 corner sp, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 3 Ch3, (tr in sp before next sp) to next corner, *(2tr, ch3, 2tr) in corner ch-3 sp, skip next st, (tr in sp before next st) to next corner; rep from * two times more, (2tr, ch3, 2tr) in final ch-3 corner sp, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Issue 98
Rainbow Tunic - p56-57
Please see the following corrections for this pattern:
Yoke
Row 2 (WS) Ch2, tr in next 7 (7: 8: 8) sts, v-st in next st, tr in next 12 (12: 14: 14) sts, v-st in next st, tr in next 14 (14: 16: 16) sts, v-st in next st, tr in next 12 (12: 14: 14) sts, v-st in next st, tr in next 7 (7: 8: 8) sts, turn. [60 (60: 68: 68) tr, 4 ch-sps]
Sizes 2-4 only
Row 3 Ch2, (tr in next st, ch1, skip next st) 4 times, finish row as instructed in patt.
Divide for body and armholes
Next row Ch2, 13 (14: 16: 17) tr, 1 (1: 1: 2) tr in ch-sp, skip next 26 (28: 32: 34) sts for armhole, 1 (1: 1: 2) tr in ch-sp, 26 (28: 32: 43) tr, 1 (1: 1: 2) tr in ch-sp, skip next 26 (28: 32: 34) sts for armhole, 1 (1: 1: 2) tr in ch-sp, 13 (14: 16: 17) tr, ss to top of first tr to join into the round.
Issue 97
Lobster cushion - p89
The numbers 40, 45 and 50 along the bottom of the chart should be labelled one square to the left. The final square along the bottom is stitch number 50 and not stitch number 51
Issue 96
Burda Pattern book included with issue 96, p.24 Shawl.
The instructions for the foundation ch are incorrect. Please follow the instructions below:
Ch319.
Row 1 Tr in fourth ch from hook and next 155 ch, (tr2tog over 4 ch skipping centre 2 ch) ,tr in final 156 ch, turn. [314 sts]
Row 2 Ch3 (does not counts as a st), skip st at base of ch-3, skip next 2 sts, (tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st) 75 times, tr in next st, (tr2tog working first leg in next st, skipping 3 sts and finishing in next st), (tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 sts) 76 times, tr in next st, skip 2 sts, tr in final st, turn. [306 sts]
Continue in pattern set using the chart provided.
Issue 95
Blue Wrap p83
There is an error in the number of motifs needed to make the wrap. You will need to make 60 motifs, 15 in each colour.
Hooded Scarf pages 85-86
HOOD
End of Hood section should read as follows:
Rows 121-160 Repeat Rows 101-120, changing colour every 10 rows.
Fasten off.
SCARF CONTINUED
Skip first 5 shells and join Yarn A in third tr of next shell.
Next Row Ch1, dc in same st, (shell in next dc, dc in next shell) across to final tr, dc in final tr, turn.
Continue in pattern from Row 142 to end.
Issue 94
Climbing Cables Jumper – p46
In the measurements table the yarn weight should be listed a 50g and not 100g. The yarn quantities listed are correct.
Issue 93
Carnaby CAL - page 51
There is an error with the stitch count for Row 16 of Half Circle, which should read as follows:
[31 3-tr groups, 16 ch-1 ss, 2 tr]
There is also an error on Row 3 of the Corner section, it should read as follow:
Row 3 2tr in sp before first 3-tr group, 3tr in sp before next 3-tr group, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in corner ch-sp, 3tr in sp before next 3-tr group, 3tr in sp between last tr and dc, (dc, ch3, dc) in 11th sp, turn.
Cable Jumper – page 74.
There is an error in Row 7 of Front. It should read as follows:
Row 7 Ch1, dc in first dc, (FPtr around next FPtr, dc in next dc) 3 (1: 2: 3: 1: 2: 3) times, *skip 1 FPtr, (FPtr around next FPtr) 2 times, FPtr around skipped FPtr, dc in next dc, FPtr around next FPtr, dc in next dc; rep from * across to last 4 (0: 2: 4: 0: 2: 4) sts, (FPtr around next st, dc in next st) to end, turn.
Show us yours page, page 80
In the double tap section we incorrectly attributed the bird cushion image. This was in fact made by Gemma Maclennan (@crogemcrochet). We sincerely apologies for this error and the whole team absolutely loved Gemma's make.
ISSUES 90-81
Issue 90
Chunky Jumper – page 30
There is an error in Row 4 of the stitch pattern. It should read as follows:
Row 4 Ch3, (3tr in sp before next 3-tr group) rep to last 2-tr group, 2tr in sp before final 2-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [61 (67: 73: 79) sts]
For the Back – Shape Shoulders section after Row 2 it should state:
Repeat Row 2 twice more. [21 (21: 23: 23) sts]
Granny Cardigan – page 55
For the One Coloured Square Motif the stitch count at the end of Round 7 should read: 27 tr on each side and 4 ch-2 sps.
The stitch counts at the end of Round 9 on all sizes should read: 35 sts on each side, 4 ch-2 sps.
Christmas Blanket - pages 63-65
Robin
You should begin the Robin with Snow Sparkle and not Spring Sparkle as listed.
Chocolate Sparkle has been incorrectly listed as Chocolate Brown.
The final row of the Tail should read as follows:
Row 5 Ch5, htr in third ch from hook, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, ss in next st from Row 4, ch6, htr in third ch from hook, htr in next 2 ch, dc in next ch, ss in next st from Row 4, (ch7, htr in third ch from hook, htr in next 3 ch, dc in next ch, ss in next st from Row 4) twice.
Issue 89
Legwarmers p.66
There is a mistake on Round 15 of Leg. The instructions should read:
Round 15 Ch1, (htr in next htr, ch1, skip next dc) around, ss to top of beg htr.
Baubles Blanket pages 58-59.
The mtr sts are missing from Rows 69-70. Please see updated chart below:
Issue 88
Lacy Top, p.32
Row 2 should read:
Ch3, tr in next 36 (41: 46: 51) tr, ch2, skip next tr, tr in next tr, skip next tr, ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in next 3 sts, 2tr in next tr, ch2, 3tr in next tr, ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in next 3 tr, 2tr in next tr, ch2, skip next tr, tr in next tr, skip next tr, ch2, tr in next 36 (41: 46: 51) tr to end, turn. [93 (103: 113: 123) tr]
Geometric Shawl, p62.
Row 8 should read:
Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, *ch10, skip ch-10 sp, tr in next 2 sts….’
In Row 11, the repeat asterisk should appear before ch10, as follows:
‘Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, *ch10 skip (ch4, dc, ch4),…’. The repeat section in this row should also be repeated across to the final 5 sts.
You are instructed to repeat Rows 3-12 until the piece measures approx 30cm, and this should be until it is the measurement stated at the beginning of the pattern; approx 112cm.
Mariposa Shawl, p.63
Row 2 should read:
‘Ch8 (counts as ttr and ch3 throughout), skip octTr, dtr in next 2 ch, ch20, skip 20 ch…’
Crochet Christmas Supplement, p15
In the measurements table the yarn has been listed as 50g balls. This should read 100g as is stated in the ‘You Will Need’ at the start of the pattern.
Issue 86
Hook to Hook (Amigurumi Alijbre), p.61
Row 6 of the Belly should read As Row 5.
Issue 84
Toucan-Tiger Cushion, pages 20 and 95-96.
The chart for the Toucan design was incorrect. Here is the correct chart (please note, the tiger chart is correct)
Issue 83
Filet Crochet Collection, P20, p.25 and p.30
The yarn used for these patterns is Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush 50g balls, the 100g listed in the measurements table is an error and should be read as 50g balls.
Amigurumi Moomin, Pg 33.
The following rows in the Head section should read as follows:
Round 4 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [28 sts]
Round 5 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [35 sts]
Round 6 Dc in each st around.
Round 7 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [42 sts]
Stylecraft Crochet Classics Supplement – Amigurumi Frog, Pg 33
Round 2 of Body should read:
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Issue 82
Pastel Elephant, Pg 22
The instructions for the Ears should read:
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into loop, do not ss to join, turn. [6 sts]
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st around, turn. [12 sts]
Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [18 sts]
Round 4 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [24 sts]
Round 5 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [30 sts]
Round 6 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [36 sts]
Round 7 (Dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [42 sts]
Round 10 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 11-12 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 13 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 35 of the Body should read:
(Dc in next st, dc2tog) 4 times. [8 sts]
Beaver Egg Cosy, Amigurumi Egg Cosy Supplement Pg 5.
The following instructions are missing from the Beaver egg cosy:
EARS (MAKE 2)
Using Ombre, make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 3 times. [9 sts]
Round 3 Dc in each dc around. [9 sts]
Fasten off.
There is no need to stuff the ear.
Flatten the base of the ear. Working through both layers, dc in each of next 4 stitches to close the opening.
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing each Ear to the Head.
Issue 81
Ombre Cardi, p.33
Puff Stitch should have been included in the Abbreviations list:
(Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, draw yarn through up to level of current row) 3 times in the same st, yrh, draw through all loops on hook.
After Row 2, you are instructed to repeat Row 2 a certain number more times. This should read ‘Work 21 (22: 23: 24: 25: 26) more rows as Row 2’ rather than what is written.
You are then instructed to work a final increasing row before the divide, which also includes adjustments on the Sleeves. After this row, the stitch count should be 294 (310: 314: 330: 346: 350) tr, 4 ch-2 sps, rather than what is written.
ISSUE 80-71
Issue 80
Mosaic Cowl, p.53. (charts on page 93)
The chart for this pattern is incorrect, here is the corrected version
Hook ‘n’ Learn, p97
Please note that the picture of the colour crafter blanket is actually the wrong way around (it is the back of the blanket that was photographed by mistake). Here is the correct picture to help you lay out your blocks.
Sweet Stitches blanket, pull-out pattern card
The chart is missing the key on the card, here is the correct version
Issue 78
Scarf, p.21-22
Please note that you will require 2 balls of Silver (1203) for the scarf.
Rows 87-88 should read htr in each st across.
There are no tr sts used to make this Scarf.
Bobble hat, p.21
In the notes section on the bobble hat, we incorrectly advised that “Yarn as listed is enough to also make Melissa’s Scarf and Mittens in this set. The Hat is worked top down in the round.”
This is incorrect and you will require the quantities listed for each pattern. It is likely that you may be able to complete some of the smaller patterns like the mittens and scarf with just one ball of each of the rainbow colours, but to be completely safe of not running out please follow the quantities listed.
Yarn review bow motif, p.76
Pattern incorrectly states to ch136, this should say ch36
Spring Wreath from 2019 Calendar
For the Spring Wreath pattern the instructions say that you will need 1 ball of Rico Creative Cotton Ricorumi in the colour Coral (009). This is a mistake and the colour coral is not used in any of the wreaths.
Issue 77
Katie Jones Christmas Jumper, p.53-55.
We’ve been made aware that some of the recommended Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran shades have been discontinued or are out of stock. Below are some alternative yarns, please check the yarn lengths that are required and be aware that although we have tried to suggest similar colours they will be slightly different to those pictured in the magazine.
Caron Simply Soft (170g/288m)
Royal Blue (9767) Berry Blue (9609) Watermelon (9604) Soft Blue (9712) Black (9727) White (9701) – or Off-white (9702)
Stylecraft Special Aran(100g/196m)
Empire (1829) Aster (1003) Watermelon (1839) Silver (1203) Black (1002) White (1001)
Christmas Roses Magenta Blanket, p73-74.
The yarn quantities for this pattern are incorrect, they should be as follows:
Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m),
11 balls of Fuchsia (049) 6 balls of Ecru (003) 2 balls of Purple Bordeaux (050), 2 balls of Aventurine (079), 1 ball of Gold (089)
Naughty Elf, p14-18.
There is a misprint in the magazine regarding what is included in the Elf kit that accompanies the magazine. Below are the correct contents.
Included in kit:
DK yarn Yarn A Flesh Yarn B Green Yarn C Red Yarn D Brown Yarn E White Yarn F Gold A pair of safety eyes Black sewing thread Pipe cleaner Bell
Not included in kit:
A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Toy stuffing Stitch markers
Issue 76
Apache Tears Hook ‘n’ Learn ninth block, p95.
You may have noticed that the magazine instructions did not match up with our Youtube video tutorial which can be found here. Both the video and the written instructions in the magazine will work out correctly if used in isolation, but do not match up if used together. This is due to a left-handed/right-handed crocheting issue, which unfortunately we did not allow for. We do take accuracy very seriously and we are sincerely sorry for the confusion caused.
We would like to make it clear that this was an administrative error, and neither the designer nor Lou from Yarniversity were responsible for this – they have both done a great job!
To avoid any further confusion, you can find the version that will work with the video here, if you wish to use them together.
We hope you enjoy hooking the blanket.
Slouchy Hat, p44.
Round 26 has been mislabeled and should read as round 25. The pattern is not actually missing a round.
Colourblock Throw, p69-70
The stitch counts on Row 19 and on Rows 37-42 should read [106 sts]
Issue 75
Sloth Brooch, p27.
Yarn C should be Chocolate (057).
Backpack, p.22
On the Circle Square Motif, Row 2 should read:
Row 2 (RS) Dc join Vanilla around the post of any st, BPdc around each st, ss to first st to join.
Please note that on Row 2 of the Circle Corner Motif it is correct when it says FPdc.
Issue 74
Patchwork Cosmos Blanket, p28.
The Blanket only requires a 5mm hook, and Round 5 on the Hexagon with Centre Star needs to be made in Yarn C.
Hook ‘n’ Learn Catherine Wheel Stitch.
The colour crafter block should measure 16x32cm (6¼ x 12½ in)
Issue 73
Crochet Edits Summery Shawl Supplement Diamond Lace Shawl, p.23-25.
Row 7 should read:
Row 7 BR, V-st, 3tr in next tr, ch3, V-st, ER. [14 sts]
Issue 72
Mermaid Amigurumi, p.15
Yarn D is incorrectly listed as gold, is should say Yarn D: Lilac
Row 10 on the hair section should be corrected to the following:
Row 10 Ch6, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr ineachofnext3ch,skip1stfromRow9,ss in next st, ch7, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 4ch ,skip 1 st from Row 9,ss in next st, ch8, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 5ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch9, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 6ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch10, 3htr in third ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 3ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, (ch12, 2htr in 3rd ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 5ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st) 6 times, ch10, 3htr in third ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 3ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch9, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 6 ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch8, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 5ch, ss in next st.
Lotus Flowers, p.22
The below section was missing from the pattern for the lotus flowers
STAMENS
Using Yarn A, ch5.
Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st) loop st in each st to end, turn. [4 sts]
Rows 3-6 Repeat Rows 1 & 2, twice more. Fasten off.
Loop st insert hook in stitch indicated, holding back a loop of yarn approx 4cm long, yrh and complete as for dc.
Beaded Curtain, p.26
The yarn quantities of the Maxi Sweet Treat yarn are incorrect, only 1 ball of each of the colours listed is required (not 4 as stated)
Mirror Frame, p.26
The mirror frame requires 1 ball of each of the Scheepjes Catona shades listed, and a small amount of Maxi Sweet Treat (incorrectly listed as Catona Maxi Sweet Treat) in each of the colours listed.
Floor Cushion, p.28
The dimensions of the mirrors are incorrect. The floor cushion requires 17 mirrors which are 1.5cm (0.6 in) in diameter.
Issue 71
Sporty Tee, p.30
We are aware that there are a lot of corrections for this particular pattern which may make it hard to follow. If you would like an updated version of the pattern which includes the following corrections, please send us an email to simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk
Back Openings
On the Left Back Opening, work up until the end of Row 4, noting that the stitch counts at the end of Row 4 should be 35 (36: 40: 42: 45: 48) sts.
Ignore the remaining instruction for the Left Back Opening and replace with the following:
Repeat Rows 3-4 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts.
Fasten off.
This correction is the same for the Right Back Opening, so work up until the end of Row 4 noting changed st counts as above, then repeat Rows 3-4 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts.
Front
Work up to the end of Row 2 of the Raglan Shaping, where you should have 73 (77: 83: 87: 93: 99) sts as written.
Disregard the remaining shaping instructions up to the start of the Neck Shaping, and replace with the following:
Repeat Row 2 another 12 (8: 9: 7: 7: 8) times. [49 (61: 65: 73: 79: 83) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Repeat Row 2 another 13 (9: 9: 7: 8: 8) times. [23 (43: 47: 59: 63: 67) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
SIZE 8 ONLY
Go to Neck Shaping.
ALL OTHER SIZES
Repeat Row 2 another -(9: 10: 8: 8: 9) times. [- (25: 27: 43: 47: 49) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
SIZES 14, 16 AND 18 ONLY
Repeat Row 2 another -(-: -: 7: 8: 8) times. [- (-: -: 29: 31: 33) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Cont with the Neck Shaping for the Right Side as written.
Row 1 of the Left Side shaping should read as follows:
Row 1 (WS) With WS facing, skip next 12 (14: 16: 18: 20: 22) sts of last row of Front, rejoin yarn in next st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 10 sts, turn.
[10 sts]
Sleeves
Replace the Right and Left Sleeve instructions up to the Raglan Border with the following:
With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, ch2, fdc 53 (57: 61: 69: 69: 75), working first fdc into 2nd ch from hook.
Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr into each st to end, turn.
[53 (57: 61: 69: 69: 75) sts]
Rows 2-4 Repeat Row 1, 3 times more.
RAGLAN SHAPING
Row 1 (RS) Ss in first 3 sts, ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 6 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [47 (51: 55: 63: 63: 69) sts] Place marker in first ss and last unworked st to mark Raglan Border.
Row 2 (WS) Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [45 (49: 53: 61: 61: 67) sts] Row 3 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 another 7 (11: 15: 7: 16: 9) times. [31 (27: 23: 47: 29: 49) sts]
For size 12, go straight to Neckline Shaping.
SIZES 8 AND 10 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [29 (25: -: -: -: -) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Repeat previous 3 rows another 3 (1: -: -: -: -) times. [23 (23: -: -: -: -) sts]
SIZE 16 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: -: 27: -) sts]
Repeat last row once more. [- (-: -: -: 25: -) sts]
SIZES 14 AND 18 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: 45: -: 47) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: 43: -: 45) sts]
Repeat last 3 rows another – (-: -: 5: -: 5) times. [- (-: -: 23: -: 25) sts]
NECKLINE SHAPING
Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [6 sts]
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next st, fasten off leaving last st unworked. [4 sts]
LEFT SLEEVE
Work as Right Sleeve up to Neckline Shaping.
Fasten off.
Next row Rejoin yarn in 16th (16th: 16th: 16th: 18th: 18th) st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn. [6 sts]
Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr2tog twice, htr in next st, fasten off. [4 sts]
Raglan Borders
The total number of htr groups for the Back border should be 15 (16: 17: 18: 19: 20).
The total number of htr groups for the Front border should be 16 (17: 18: 19: 20: 21), as the Front border is longer due to the Neck Shaping.
On the instructions for the Sleeve Borders and for Joining Raglan Borders, the shorter side will therefore be attached to the Back and the longer side to the Front, not the other way round as written.
Asymmetrical Poncho, p.56
Row 4 should read as follows,
Row 4 Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2), *skip 3tr of next block, dc in top of ch3 of same block, ch2, skip tr at base of ch-3, tr in next tr, ch2; repeat from * ending last rep with tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
ISSUE 70-61
Issue 70
Chevron Cardigan, p.27.
Row 8 of Left Front; Armhole and Neckline Decreasing; sizes 8-10 and 16-20 should read:
‘Row 8 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, work in Stitch Pattern to end, turn.’
On the Shape Armhole section on page 28, after the first 2 rows it should say
Sizes 8-10 and 12-14 fasten off.
Sizes 16-20 and 22-24 Dec 1 st at each end of next (3:4) rows.
Amigurumi Panda, p.39
The pattern is missing the tail instructions, they are as follows:
Tail
With Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st) 5dc into the ring. [5 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts]
Round 3 – 4 1dc in each dc. [10 sts]
Round 5 (dc2tog, 3dc) repeat twice. [8 sts]
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.
Sleeveless Top, p.64.
The sizing measurements that accompany the schematic are incorrect, they should be the following:
Width a: 48 (51.5, 55, 58.5)cm 19 (20 1/4, 21 3/4, 23)in.
Fanfare sleeves, p.68
The following rows were missing an asterisk symbol, the corrected rows are below.
Round 1 (RS) Ch2, tr in next dc (counts as tr2tog), *(ch1, skip next dc, tr in next dc) twice, ch1, skip next dc, tr2tog, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr2tog; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Round 2 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, *tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next tr, tr2tog over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch4, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, ch2, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Round 3 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, *tr2tog over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, ch2, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Issue 69
Elephant Head, pattern booklet included with issue 69
Row 13 of the Shape Top of Ear (Page 11) The final stitch count is incorrect and should be 43 sts, not 112 sts as stated.
Round 5 of the Picot Flower Motif (Page 14) should read as follows: (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 10 times. [30 sts]
Issue 68
Issue 68 – Fisherman’s Sweater pp42-45
The yarn quantities listed in the table are incorrect. They should read as follows:
Yarn A Kingfisher - 1 ball for all sizes.
Yarn B Bluebell - 12 (13: 14: 16) balls.
Hook ‘n’ Learn Feature, p48-49
On the ‘Colour Crafter Version Only’ section at the end of the pattern, this should say Rows 6-39 (or until piece measures 32cm ending with an odd row). The Stone Washed XL version is correct in saying ‘until piece measures 40cm’
Easter Egg Pull-Out Pattern Card
On the Easter egg pattern card we say that you can watch a tutorial on how to make these eggs on our Youtube channel – this refers to the stiffening process using the balloons and PVA glue, and not the crochet pattern itself (although you can find separate tutorials for the individual stitches). You can find the PVA glue video here.
Ruffle Accessories Socks, p22
You will require 2 balls of the Yarn A Pumice for these socks. We think the small size may be possible with just the one ball, but we would recommend airing on the side of caution and making sure you have 2 to avoid disappointment.
Issue 67
Mandala Mat, p.24-25.
The mini mandala’s and decoration sections require the following colour chart which was omitted.
Lacy Cardigan, p.27-30.
There is a misprint in the sizing chart, the cardigan requires 10 (11, 12, 13) 50g balls of Wendy Merino DK (not 100g as stated).
Party Shark, p44-47.
The instruction to make 2 of the tail pieces has been missed off. You make two of the tail pieces, sew the first rounds together around the base once you’ve stuffed them, and then sew them on to the back of the Shark.
Hook to Hook gloves/mittens, p. 59-62.
The yarn colour codes are the wrong way around for both of these patterns, it should say
1 ball of Yarn A Chestnut (03) 2 balls of Yarn B Gold (09)
Issue 66
Ski Sunday Scandi Jumper, p.24-27
The icon at the top of the page is incorrect, the Drops Air yarn used is actually Aran weight The Yarn quantities on the sizing table are incorrect and should be. Yarn A – 7 balls (8 balls for size 16-18 and 9 balls for size 20-22) - all other colours only require one ball each for all sizes.
There is also a slight mistake with the placement of the asterisks on Round 7 of the Body section, it should read:
Round 7 Ch3, *tr in each of next 4 (4: 5: 5) sts, 2tr in next st, tr in each of next 4 (5: 5: 6) sts; rep from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. [160 (176: 192: 208) sts]
Issue 65
Braided hat by Lucy Croft, p.66.
Round 2 is missing from the Head section, below is the missing round.
Round 2 Join Yarn B in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next dc) 3 times, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next dc, repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. [9 (10: 11) 7-tr groups and 9 (10: 11) ch-6 sps]
Bougainvillea Shawl by Kate Alinari, p.62
Row 1 Ch3 (counts as a tr throughout), tr in third ch from hook, turn.
Rows 2-3 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. [2 tr]
Row 4 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [4 tr]
Row 5 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. [4 tr]
Rows 6-27 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 11 times. [28 tr]
Rows 33-60 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 13 times. [62 tr]
Row 61 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [64 tr]
Rows 67-74 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 4 times. [78 tr]
Row 75 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [80 tr]
Rows 81-102 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 11 times. [107 tr]
Row 103 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [109 tr]
Rows 109-112 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 2 times. [119 tr]
Row 113 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [121 tr]
Rows 119-120 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 1 times. [129 tr]
Delphinium Shawl by Megan Hocking, p. 60-62
We have corrections for the following rows:
Row 10 Ch2, htr in st at base of ch, *2htr in next ch-2 sp, htr in next st; repeat from * to point, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in point, **htr in next st, 2 htr in next ch-2 sp; repeat from ** to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [80 htr]
Row 22 Ch4 (counts as dc, ch3), skip 2sts, dc in next st, *ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across to point, (dc, ch3, dc) in point, dc in next st, **ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from ** to end, turn. [49 ch-3 sps]
Row 30 Ch3, *2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, tr in next st, **2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. [310 tr]
Row 36 Repeat Row 8. [79 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups]
Lacy Cardigan by Amanda Crawford, p.28 & 29
On the First Front, before the first Armhole, the last row you need to work is a WS Row 3, not a Row 1 as stated. This row will be worked from the shoulder towards the bottom hem.
The following instructions replace those written for the Armhole in the magazine, to make the armhole rows correct in pattern:
For the Armhole, place a marker in the 15th (16th: 17th: 18th: 19th) tr from the start (shoulder) of the last row, skipping the ch-sps. Armhole should measure 20 (21: 22.5: 23.5: 25) cm.
Next Row (RS) Repeat Row 1 to marker, turn leaving rem sts unworked.
Next Row (WS) Repeat Row 2, turn.
Next Row (RS) Repeat Row 3 to end, ch42 (45: 48: 51: 54) for opposite side of armhole, turn.
Next Row (WS) Repeat Row 1 to end, turn. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts]
You can then follow these corrected instructions when told to repeat the armhole.
Puff Stitch Mitts by Hannah Cross, p.25
On the Mitts section, rather than repeating Rows 1 and 2 for rows 3-18, work the following rows instead.
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st) *(dc, ch2, 5htr-puff) in next ch-2 sp, ch1, rep from * to last Puff St, dc in top of beg ch-2, turn.
Rows 4-18 Repeat Rows 2-3 seven more times, repeat Row 2 once more.
Issue 64
Amigurumi Santa p.38.
On the LEG (MAKE 2) section, there is no round 15. This is a mistake with the numbering and the pattern remains unaffected.
On the BELT section, it should say ‘Using Yarn B’ rather than Yarn C.
Supernova Granny Blanket p.69.
On the JOINING and EDGING section, it incorrectly says to use ‘Pearl Grey’. This is a mistake and should say Gray Lilac.
Lacy Top, p.44.
In the Yoke section, Round 3 should read “2tr in first st, tr in each tr around working (tr, ch1, tr) in each of first 3 ch-sps and 1 tr in last ch-sp, ch1, ss to top of beg ch-3.”
Issue 63
Centrepiece Trees p.21.
The hook size required for this project is a 2.5mm hook.
Lacy Bauble Trio p.20
We incorrectly credited the Lacy Bauble Trio to Anne Egan, this design was actually by Hannah Cross.
Issue 62
Tartan Skirt p.25.
The yarn quantities for Yarn A should be 6: 6: 6: 6: 7: 7: 7 balls of Cherry for respective sizes 8-20.
When you reach the Waist Shaping, continue working in rounds and in the Stripe pattern as established.
Fox Hoodie p.55
The yarn quantities for Yarn A should read 4 (4: 5) balls of yarn for sizes 2, 4 and 6 years respectively.
On the Back, after working on the first side of the neck shaping, you will need to skip the central 20 (21: 23) sts instead of 26 (27: 29) sts as stated.
Issue 61
Hook to Hook Challenge Block Stitch Blanket on p.53
For this pattern the yarn quantities should read as follows:
Yarn A 5 balls of Light Grey (15) Yarn B 1 ball of Lime (24)
ISSUE 60-51
Issue 60
Boho Mandala on p.25
Yarn D Toffee (3656) is listed but is not required and doesn’t appear in the pattern.
Issue 59
Filet Jumper on p.52
The yarn weight stated should be 4ply, and not DK.
The tension should be:
Rib – 26 rows of dc to 10cm (4in)
Filet – 8.5 mesh squares to 10cm (4in) and 9 rows to 10cm (4in)
It appears that the 4.5mm hook stated is also too large to achieve the tension stated. You could try a 4mm hook, or even a 3.5mm hook. It’s very important to work a tension swatch before you start to check that your hook size is giving you the tension stated in the pattern. Particularly in this case, where the 4.5mm hook is obviously too large, please do a test swatch to find out which size of hook will give you the tension stated above.
And the first row of the sleeves section is incorrect, it should read as follows:
Row 1 (RS) Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2 throughout), *skip ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, ch2; repeat from * to end, tr in last tr, turn. [30 (32: 34) mesh squares]
Pedro the Donkey on p.43.
One of the brackets in the reins section is in the wrong place, it should read as following:
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, (htr in next ch, ch3, ss into the third ch from hook) until last 2 ch, htr in next ch, dc in last ch. [36 sts]
Issue 58
Frank&Olive Doughnut Dress on p.50
On Round 1 of the Skirt, all stitches are tr stitches; it should read ‘tr in each ch of the ch-6 of the underarm’ and not dc as stated.
The yarn quantities stated in the original pattern for Magic Mint are incorrect. 1 ball is required for all sizes. All other yarn quantities are given correctly.
The alternative yarn suggested (DROPS Love 5) is no longer available. DROPS Paris is a close match with 75m per 50g. So we would suggest 2 balls of Paris for the yoke for all sizes.
As we are working out a substitute yarn that is sold in 50g balls not 100g balls we have simply doubled the quantities, however, it may be that 1 ball is sufficient for the yoke on the smallest size and for the cream stripe. It is impossible to calculate this accurately from the original sample so we have erred on the safe side by doubling quantities.
If you are planning on using a yarn substitute other than those that we have recommended, please remember to check the meterage as well as the weight so that you don’t end up buying too much yarn.
The sizing of the dress is generous, it is designed to be loose-fitting. Please ensure your swatch meets the tension given in the pattern for the best outcome.
Issue 55
Easter Amigurumi Supplement Gwendoline the Lamb, p.22
The abbreviation for Bobble should read:
(Yrh, insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting hook in same st each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
V-Stitch Top
There is an error in the tension statement on this garment. Each Rainbow Band section of 5 rows of double crochet measures 2.5cm (1in) deep
Evangeline the Rabbit, p.7
There is some text missing at the bottom of the last column on p7. It should read ‘rejoin Yarn B with a ss to the first skipped st of Row 14’.
Issue 54
A Good Vintage granny cardigan.
For the starting chain numbers please see below.
Size 8-10: foundation chain of 173
Size 12-14: foundation chain of 197
Size 16-18: foundation chain of 221
Size 20-22: foundation chain of 245
Sleeves
And to clarify, when you’re working the sleeves, you should work until there are 50 rounds of the pattern, not including the first 3 dc rounds.
On the Back and Front, after the Armhole Divide and working the Right Front, you rejoin for the Back. On Row 2 (Decrease Row) and Row 3, the stitch counts for the largest two sizes should read 31 and 35 tr groups after Row 2 for sizes 16-18 and 20-22 respectively. This will make the counts for these sizes 32 and 36 after Row 3, and 28 and 32 after the repeats of Rows 2 and 3.
Due to unforeseen shade alterations by King Cole you may be unable to find the Silver yarn shade. So we recommend the following yarn shade substitutions for the A Good Vintage granny cardigan:
King Cole Merino Blend 4ply
Stone (904) to be replaced with Slate Blue (096)
Silver (036) to be replaced with Stone (904)
Slipper Socks, p.73
The stitch count at the end of Round 1 of the Leg should be the total number of tr not the total number of sts as stated. There are [29 (33: 37) tr] after Round 1.
Issue 53
January Blues mandala on page 96
The repeat section of Round 7 should read *ch6, skip next dc of Round 5, (tr, ch1, tr, ch1, tr) in next tr of Round 5; rep from * 6 more times, complete as written.
Pick ‘n’ Mix CAL pattern on page 33 (subscribers only):
After Round 8, there is a round missing. For this missing round, work as follows:
Join Yarn F with a ss to any ch-4 sp, (ch3, ss in next ch-4 sp) 24 times, working last ss in first ss of Round.
You will then continue working from Round 9 of the pattern, but instead of joining Yarn F as written (you are already working with it), ss into the next ch-3 sp before starting. Round 9 refers to ch-4 sps of the previous round, so these will be ch-3 sps instead, but the stitches themselves are accurate.
When you have finished there will be a total of 12 rounds in the pattern.
Issue 52
‘Top of the crops’ jacket by Ilaria Caliri.
With a bold silhouette, cropped sleeves, huge pocket and jumbo button, this is one heck of a jacket. It’s hooked in berry-coloured wool and wins big in the style stakes.
Please note, the yarn used is Lana Grossa Feltro, which comes in 50g balls. The measurements table lists 100g balls but the number of balls is correct for 50g balls (as listed in the ‘You will need’ section). So for size 8 you will need 14 50g balls, for sizes 10 and 12 you need 15 50g balls, and so on.
ISSUE 50-41
Issue 50
Lacy Snowflake, p.31.
The stitch count at the end of Round 3 should read ‘12 dc and 6 ch-4 sps’ and not ‘24 dc’.
Polar Bear Blanket chart, p.73
The colour chart itself is correct, but the rows have been misnumbered. Number 79 is missing along the top, and number 88 is missing on the left. This means there are a total of 90 rows, rather than 91, but as long as you work each row of the chart in sequence you will get the right result.
The yarn quantities should be 3 balls each of Yarn A Aspen and Yarn B White, not 5 balls.
Chevron Coat, p. 55
On the Yoke section, work Row 1, and then rows of Yarn C, Yarn G, and Yarn D as stated.
For the Small size go to the Yoke Shaping at this point [4 rows]. Continue for the other sizes working a Yarn D row.
For Medium size go to Yoke Shaping at this point [5 rows]. Cont for the other sizes working 2 more Yarn D rows.
For Large size go to Yoke Shaping at this point [7 rows]. For size XL work a further 2 rows of Yarn D and one of Yarn F [10 rows].
Chunky hat ‘A sweet treat’ and ‘How to read a pattern’ feature, p.79
Due to an editing error, the repeat elements of the pattern are missing. The sections of ‘How to read a pattern’ that cover the Crown and Adult Brim refer to this original version of the pattern.
CROWN
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 8dc into the loop, ss to first dc to join. [8 dc]
Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), (puff st, ch1) in each dc around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [8 puff sts, 8 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 3 Ch2, 2htr in next st, (htr in next st, 2htr in next st) around to the last st, htr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [25 sts]
Round 4 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in each of next 5 sts, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [20 puff sts, 20 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 5 Ch2, htr in each st around. [41 sts]
Round 6 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in each of next 4 sts, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [32 puff sts, 32 ch-1, ch-2]
ADULT BRIM
Round 7 Ch2, htr in each of the next 2 sts, htr2tog, *htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [52 sts]
Round 8 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in next st, skip 1 st, (puff st, ch1) in next st twice, skip 1 st; rep from * around to last st, (puff st, ch1) in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [31 puff sts, 31 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 9 Ch2, htr2tog, *htr in next st, htr2tog; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [42 sts]
Round 10 Ch2, [skip 1 st, (puff st, ch1) in next st] 3 times, *[(puff st, ch1) in next st**, skip 1 st] 4 times ending last repeat at **; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [23 puff sts, 23 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 11 Ch2, htr2tog, *htr in next st, htr2tog; rep from * around to last 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [32 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Issue 49
Amigurumi Ghost, p.15
There are a couple of rounds missing from this pattern.
Work from Rounds to 1-13 as written. Then work the following rounds:
Next round (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 8 times. [16 sts]
Next round (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 8 times. [24 sts]
Continue with the rest of the pattern as written from Round 14.
Issue 48
Winding Ways Cable Jumper p.34
The stitch count at the end of Round 3 of the Shoulder Decreasing should read 168 (176: 190: 198: 212: 220) sts.
Jersey Girl Chunky Shrug p.54
The labels for the sizes in the table on p.54 should read ‘Small, Medium and Large’ in keeping with the references later on in the pattern. The measurements given on the schematic diagram are also incorrect; they should be the measurements for Length (arrow going from top to bottom of diagram) and those from Width Cuff to Cuff (arrow from side to side) from the table.
Here Comes Treble Asymetrical Shawl p.71
Increase Panel
The increases should be at the end of the RS rows and the beginning of the WS rows as follows:
Work the htr sts in the following row into the ch sts, rather than the ch-sps:
Row 1 (RS) Ch2, htr in each st to last 3 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, 2htr in last st, turn. [2 sts increased]
Work the htr sts in the back loop only throughout:
Row 2 Ch2, 2htr in first st, htr in each st to end, turn. [1 st increased]
Row 3 Ch2, htr in each st to last 3 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, 2htr in last st, turn. [2 sts increased]
Omit Row 4 of the Crossed Shell Panel on the final repeat.
Issue 47
Summer Shawls supplement: Lace Shawl p.6
The stitch count at the end of Row 3 should read ‘7 sections of 22 tr and 6 ch-1 sps; 160 sts total’.
Lacy Top p.58.
On Row 4 of the Waistband, there should be a repeat asterisk as follows:
Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2), *tr into next ch-5 sp, ch2, tr into next dc,**…
The headings on the charts for the Main Stitch Pattern and the Waistband are the wrong way round, so the Waistband chart is the one at the top of the page.
Issue 46
Pansy Blue Butterfly pattern p.31
In Rnd 3, there should not be a second asterisk in the round. The repeat should be *ss into next sp between sts, 7tr into next ch-2 sp; rep from * 6 more times, ss to top beg ch-3.
You can also find a chart for this pattern below, if you find that easier to work from.
Issue 45
Camper Cushions p.27.
You will need 2 balls of Yarn A Cream, and not one as stated.
Issue 44
Baby Blanket p.74
Change back to Yarn B at the end of Row 65, and then Rows 66-89 should read ‘Repeat Rows 20-46’.
The row counts for the remainder of the pattern will be 3 rows out, but the pattern itself is correct.
Issue 43
Ankylosaurus p.43.
Rounds 1-8 of the Body should read as follows:
BODY
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts]
Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 sts]
Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [48 sts]
TAIL
Rounds 2 and 3 of the Tail should read as follows:
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts]
Yarn reviews, p. 74
Sorry, we made an error in the price of the King Cole Giza yarn – a mercerised cotton 4ply. The RRP is £2.25 – £2.69, and the recommended hook size is 3.25mm/US3.
For more details visit www.kingcole.com or call 01756 703670.
Issue 42
Entrelac Cushion, Tunisian Crochet supplement p.17.
The instruction for how to work the Tunisian Increase (Tssinc) stitch has been missed out:
Tssinc (Tunisian Simple Stitch increase) in the next st
Insert the hook under the horizontal bar before the next st, pull up a loop and leave it on the hook, insert the hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, pull up a loop and leave it on the hook.
Issue 41
Baby Bootees, p.74.
Round 3 of the Sole should read:
Round 3 Htr in each of first 2 sts, 2htr in each of next 3 sts, 8 (9: 11) htr, (2htr in next st, htr in next st) 6 times, 8 (9: 11) htr, 2htr in each of next 3 sts, do not join. [48 (50: 54) sts]
Peephole Chevron, p.59
The Finishing Row should read as follows:
Finishing Row (not on sample) Ss in first st, *dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, ss in each ch; rep from * rep from *, omitting last ss on final repeat and working ss into last st, fasten off.
ISSUE 40-31
Issue 40
Lace collar by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz
If you’re thinking of hooking this using Kidsilk Haze Shine please note you will need two balls, not one as stated in the pattern. It’s an luxury yarn, so if your budget can’t stretch to two balls you could use one ball of Rowan Shine as stated, and then buy one ball of Rowan Kidsilk Haze, which comes in exactly the same shade. Kidsilk Haze is less costly than Shine, and could be used to work Row 2, with Shine as Rows 1 and 3.
For another cheaper version, Scheepjes have a similar yarn to Kidsilk Haze called Mohair Rhythm. If you hooked the necklace in this yarn you could add beads rather than crystals for a similar effect.
Or if you still want to make it with just one ball of Kidsilk Haze Shine, you can tweak the pattern. The published pattern is written using 4 multiples of 14 sts 1. You could try using 3 multiples of 14sts 1, which is total of 43 sts, so the foundation ch would be ch43, plus an extra ch1 as turning ch for the beginning of Row 1. If you did this, for the ‘point’ of the pattern to be in the centre you would need to stagger the pattern repeat in a different way.
This chart (click to enlarge it) shows what would happen. The stitch pattern is the same as published but it starts the row in a different place. Obviously if you do this you will end up with a smaller collar piece, but you could use longer ribbons as ties instead of ch. It would also be worth using a 3.5mm hook instead of a 4mm hook to save yarn.
Green bobble jumper, p.40
Under the heading ‘Sleevehead Decreases’, the instruction should read ‘decrease one st at each end of the next 2 rows’ to achieve the stitch count written.
Baby dungarees, p.68
On the Leg Shaping, the rows have been misnumbered; there are no missing rows in the pattern. Rows 6-8 should be numbered Rows 4-6, and Row 9 should be Row 7. This applies to the Leg Shaping on both legs.
Lacy Shawl, p.60
At the end of Row 17, the stitch count should read 72tr, not 36tr.
Lacy Collar, p.52
Row 2 should read as follows:
Row 2 Ch7 (counts as tr and ch4), *skip next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch4, skip next 6 sts, V-stitch in next st, ch4; rep from * twice more, ch4, skip next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch4, skip next 6 sts, tr in last st, turn.
Issue 39
Amigurumi Penguin pattern on p.68.
On the Body of the Large Penguin, Rounds 7-11 should read Rounds 7-16, so there are five additional rounds of plain dc. Then continue as written from Round 12 to finish. After working the last round of the Body, continue working another 4 dc2tog before fastening off and sewing up the Head.
Issue 38
Festive Wreath
There is an update in the amount of yarn needed for the. It should be three balls of the red Cranberry yarn, as you use this to cover the wreath as well as make some of the flowers. Only 1 ball each is needed of Fawn and Grey.
Issue 36
Amigurumi Doll, p.18
Round 16 of the Head and Body should read (Invdec) 18 times. [18 sts]
Cabled Mitts, p.26
Row 8 should read like Row 6, so you will skip 3 tr, FPdtr in next 3 sts, FPdtr in 3 skipped sts.
Issue 35
Peachy Keen Tunisian shawl, p. 46
Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz used an extended stitch for this shawl, so there’s a ch1 at the start of each row and a ch1 after each TKS, TSS and TKS2TOG. Row 2 should read:
Row 2: FwdP: Ch1, insert hook into space before first st, tks, ch1 (increase made). *Tks in next st, ch1*. Rep from * to * across. RetP worked as listed in abbreviations column.
Rows 3-42: as printed.
Treble Jumper, p.60.
Neckband
The stitch count at the end of Round 1 should read 88 (88: 94: 96: 102: 104: 108: 114: 120) sts.
Rounds 3-5 of the Neckband should read as follows:
Round 3 (WS) Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 6htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [77 (77: 83: 84: 90: 91: 95: 100: 105) sts]
Round 4 Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 5htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [66 (66: 72: 72: 78: 78: 82: 86: 90) sts]
Round 5 Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 4htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [55 (55: 61: 60: 66: 65: 69: 72: 75) sts]
Fasten off.
Lacy top p.39
The following replaces the ‘Shape Neck’ section, up to ‘To Make Up’.
Shape Neck
Row 1 (WS) Work Row 1 of the stitch pattern until you have completed the second group of 3dc, ch3, skip 1 dc, 3tr into next ch-3 sp, ch1, skip next 2 tr, tr in next tr, turn.
Complete first side as follows:
Row 2 Ch3, skip (ch-1 sp and tr), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, work in Row 2 of the stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 3 Work in Row 3 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, tr, ch-3), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, tr in last ch-3 sp, turn.
Row 4 Ch3, skip 3 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, continue in Row 4 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 5 Work in Row 5 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, 3tr, ch-3), 3tr in ch-3 sp, tr in last ch-3 sp, turn.
Row 6 Ch3, skip 3 tr, 3tr in ch-3 sp, continue in Row 6 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 7 Work in Row 7 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, 3tr, ch-3), 3tr in ch-3 sp, ch3, dc in sp formed by turning ch, dc into third ch of turning ch, turn.
Row 8 Ch2, skip first dc, dc in next dc, dc in first ch-3 sp, ch3, skip first 3 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, continue in Row 8 of stitch pattern to end, fasten off.
Complete second side as follows:
Rejoin yarn with WS facing to the second treble group from the other side, joining in the tr nearest the neckline edge.
Row 1 (WS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, work in Row 1 of the stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch6 (counts as tr and ch3), continue in Row 2 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-3 sp, tr in third ch of beg ch-4, turn.
Row 3 Ch3, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, continue in Row 3 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 4 Work as Row 4 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-1 sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 5 Ch3, 3tr in ch-3 sp, work as Row 5 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 6 Ch6 (counts as tr, ch3), 3tr in first ch-3 sp, continue in Row 6 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-3 sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 7 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in sp created by last tr of previous row, dc in top of same tr, ch3, 3tr in first ch-3 sp, continue in Row 7 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 8 Work as Row 8 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-1 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, fasten off.
Now continue with Making Up instructions in published pattern.
Issue 34
Mandala Waistcoat, p. 52-55
When beginning first segment, instead of reading “With Poppy Red, ch8 ss into first ch to form a ring” followed by “Row 1 (RS) Ch9…” it should read:
Ch17, ss into 8th ch from hook,
Then follow the pattern as you would have after the ch9 (so dc into next ch, her etc). This will leave your yarn in the right place to create the segment.
Sarong p.25
Row 1 should read ‘With Mint, ch5 (counts as ch, tr, ch),…’
Little Monster Cushion p.48
The first paragraph is mistaken – the limbs are worked in htr and only the features (Cheeks and Eyes) are worked in dc.
Treble Tee p.83
On the Sleeves section, there are 2 too many sts in the foundation ch for the number of sts worked in the row, so start by chaining 48 (50: 52: 56: 60: 68). Thereafter the stitch counts will be 2 more than the actual stitch count but continue working as written until you have worked the first row of the Top Shaping, and have continued decreasing as instructed until 22 (22: 22: 22: 24) sts remain. Complete the Sleeves as written.
Issue 33
Simply Crochet, Issue 33, Supplement: Round mandala blanket, p.4
Round 23 should read: Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first ss, *ch2, skip next ch-3 sp, dc in next ss, ch1, skip next ch-3 sp, dc in next ss; rep from * around, ss in first dc. [42 ch-1 sp and 42 ch-2 sp]
Then follow the pattern for Round 24 making sure you just 6tr in every ch2 sp and not any ch1 sp.
Round 24 Ss into first ch-2 sp, ch3, 5tr in same ch-2 sp, 6tr in each following ch-2 sp around, ss in top of beg ch-3. [252 sts]
Round 26 Ch1, *dc in back loop only of next 5 sts, skip next st, 3-tr cluster in skipped ch-1 sp of Round 23; repeat from * around, ss in top of first st, change to Grape.
Round 35 has been re-written – the stitch counts themselves were correct. Round 35 Ss between first 2 sts, ch3, 5tr in same sp, *skip 6 sts, 6tr in sp before next st; repeat from * around, ss in top of beg ch-3. [42 6-tr groups]
Round 54 should read:
Working in the back loops only: ch4 (counts as tr and ch1), skip 1 st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss in third ch of beg ch-4.
Round 57
There should be 2 stitches in this round for every 2 stitches in the previous round because the stitch count remains the same.
Ss between first pair of sts, ch3, tr in sp at base of ch, skip 1 st, (2tr between next pair of sts, skip 1 st) around, ss in top of beg ch-3, change to Parma Violet. [352 sts]
Bohemian Blanket, p.25
At the beginning of the pattern for the Narrow Half Diamond, there should be 4 rows of each of Anis and Hawaii, rather than the 3 stated. There are then 3 rows of all subsequent colours including the Hawaii and Anis at the end. This is to ensure that the diamonds are the right size to sew together with the other pieces.
Issue 33, main magazine
Patchwork Throw, p.16
Round 1 of the Edging states that you should work (2FPtr, ch2, 2FPtr) into the corner stitch. This will work on the first round, but thereafter you will be working into the ch-2 sps at the corners, so you will need to replace the FPtr sts with dtr stitches in order to work them into a chain space.
Lacy Cardigan, p.44
The correction replaces the whole of the Yoke section, and finishes before ‘Divide for Sleeves’.
Yoke
With a 3.5mm hook, ch59 (61: 63: 69: 69: 71: 73).
Row 1 (RS) 2htr in third ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as htr), 11 (11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 13) Moss St beg with a dc, (htr, ch1, htr) in next ch, placing a marker in the ch, 31 (33: 35: 37: 37: 39: 41) Moss St beg with a dc, (htr, ch1, htr) in next ch, placing a marker in the ch, 11 (11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 13) Moss St beg with a dc, 2htr in last ch, turn. [63 (65: 67: 73: 73: 75: 77) sts including ch-sps]
Row 2 (Increase Row) Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 2htr in st at base of ch, *Moss St in each st up to marker, always working tr in each dc and dc in each tr, (htr, ch1, htr) in the marked st, moving marker to ch of current row; repeat from *, Moss St in each st up to last htr, 2htr in last htr, turn. [increase by 6 sts, including ch-sps]
Repeat last row a further 2 (1: 2: 2: 2: 3: 4) times. [81 (77: 85: 91: 91: 99: 107) sts]
Next Row (Plain Row) Ch2, htr in st at base of ch, (Moss St in each st up to marker, htr in marked st moving marker to this st) twice, Moss St in each st up to last stitch, htr in last st, turn.
*Work 4 (3: 4: 4: 4: 5: 6) Increase Rows (as Row 2), followed by a Plain Row.
Repeat from * a further 3 (5: 4: 4: 4: 3: 3) times. [177 (185: 205: 211: 211: 219: 251) sts]
Work a further 2 (2: 0: 2: 4: 4: 1) Increase Rows. [189 (197: 205: 223: 235: 243: 257) sts]
Next Row Ch2, 2htr in st at base of ch, (Moss St in each st up to marker, htr in marked st moving marker up to this st) twice, Moss St in each st up to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [191 (199: 207: 225: 237: 245: 259) sts]
Work 4 (2: 3: 3: 1: 4: 3) Plain rows, moving markers up. [Total of 30 (32: 32: 34: 36: 36: 36) rows for Yoke]
Issue 32
Sugar & Spice cardi pattern on p.66-68.
Row 8 should read: Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into back loop of each st to end, turn, changing to Yarn A.
Issue 31
Bertie Bear pattern, on p.36.
In the ‘Head’ section it should say to place the eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, not 23 and 24 as stated. Also, for the Pink Shawl, on p.40, Row 5 should read …(3tr in next ch-2 sp, ch1) 8 times, dc in next ch-4 sp;
Ripple Blanket on p.22-23
stitches should be worked into the back loops only!
ISSUE 30-21
Issue 30
If you’re hooking the Granny treble top – issue 30 – we have some extra help from our lovely technical editor, as several readers were confused by the instructions for the arm shaping.
Cara says “It looks odd that the first row increases by 2 clusters and the following rows only by 1, but it does work out this way if you follow the pattern as written. On this sketched chart, the rows of the main pattern are at the bottom of the chart, and the increases for the arm shaping are explained at the top of the chart.”
Issue 29
Long Sleeved Top, pg. 32
We’re sorry that there is a small mistake in the ‘You Will Need’ list for this pattern.
Yarn weight should read Aran, not 4ply. The stated hook size of 3mm is correct.
Lacy Shawl, p.58
The 5mm hook should not have been listed in the ‘You Will Need’ column. The entire pattern is worked on a 4.5mm hook.
Also, on Row 7, the shells should be worked in the ch-2 sps of the previous row, not ch-3 sps as written in the pattern.
Amigurumi Doll, p.64
The last round of the Dress, Round 17, should be worked in treble stitches and not dc as stated.
Embellish Cuff, p.66
Rows 2 and 3 should read as follows:
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each of the next 4 sts, *(dc, ch7, dc) into the next st, dc into each of the next 7 sts; repeat from * across omitting the last 3 dc on the final repeat, turn.
Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc into the next st, skip 3 sts, *9dc into ch-7 sp, skip 3 sts, dc into the next st, tr in the next st, dc in the next st, skip 3 sts; repeat from * across omitting the last dc on the final repeat, turn.
Issue 27
Spike Stitch, on page 51.
Please note that the Basic Spike Stitch Pattern is correct as written, but you will need to fasten off the yarn and rejoin the new colour at the end of each row.
Spike Stitch Legwarmers
For the Legwarmers, use 3 balls of the shade used for the rib edges and 2 balls of the contrast shade.
Beaded shawl, page 60
At the beginning of Row 10, instead of ‘Ch3’, it should read ‘Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2)’.
Shaun the Sheep, p.49
Round 2 of the Face should read (5dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [14 sts]
Issue 26
Cabled Cardigan, p.41
On the Sleeves, after repeating Rows 5-12, it states that there should be 43 rows in total. There are actually 44 rows at this point, but all of the other maths details in this section are correct.
In addition, the 3-st cable pattern should be as follows:
Row 1 3dc.
Row 2 3dc.
Row 3 3FPtr.
Row 4 3dc.
Row 5 Skip 1 FPtr, 1FPtr in each of next 2 sts, 1FPtr into the skipped st, working in front of the existing sts.
Row 6 3dc.
Work Rows 3-6 as many times as required by pattern.
Hexagon Shawl, p.37
In the shades of yarn listed, Plum should be replaced with Rosehip (2474)
Issue 25
Christmas Tree pattern on page 27.
Round 39 should read:
*2dc in next dc, dc in next 14dc; repeat from * around. [64 dc]
Mouse Toy, p.64
On the Head, work Rounds 12 onwards as follows:
Round 12 (4dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 13 (3dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 14 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 15 (dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts]
Stuff head.
Round 16 (dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Tunisian Shawl, p.43
The repeat instructions after Level 3 should read:
Repeat (Levels 2 and 3) a further 4 times, changing to next largest hook size before each Level 2. [11 levels in total]
To clarify the hook sizes used for each level, Levels 1, 2 and 3 are worked on a 5mm hook, Levels 4 and 5 on 5.5mm, Levels 6 and 7 on 6mm, Levels 8 and 9 on 6.5mm and Levels 10 and 11 on 8mm. All of these sizes are listed in the ‘You will need’ column at the beginning of the pattern.
Issue 24
We’re sorry, we have a correction for issue 24 of Simply Crochet. There’s an error in the printed copies, on page 94. The chart for the Cosy Cushion (page 25) is missing the row of white flowers across the centre, so the chart should look like this:
This was an error in the printing, so if you have downloaded the digital edition of issue 24, this won’t affect you.
Hot Water Bottle Cover, page 27
There is a critical bit missing from Row 3 of the cuff. Row 3 should read as follows:
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in back loop only of each dc across, skip next st of Round 49, ss in next st of Round 49, turn.
Without skipping every alternate stitch of Round 49 you will end up with a cuff that is too big.
Yarn reviews, page 80
We’re sorry, the ball weight/meterage for Wendy Ramsdale is incorrect; it should say 50g/112 m.
Snuggly Socks, p.23
Do not work Rounds 17-19 of the Leg, after Round 16, skip to Round 20.
Tissue Box Cover, p.26
After working Rounds 1-3, there is another round labelled Round 3, which should be Round 4.
Issue 23
Purple Jumper, page 55.
In the Waist Shaping section, after Rounds 2-4, the repeat instruction should read as follows:
Repeat Rounds 1-4 two more times. Work Round 1 once more.
Issue 22
Fear not chart lovers! Here’s a handy chart to go with the written pattern for Elisabeth Davis de Herriaz’s shawl featured in issue 22 of Simply Crochet.
Issue 21
Amigurumi Dinosaurs p.56
On the Arms, it should read ‘Rounds 4-9 Dc in each dc around.’
ISSUE 20-11
Issue 20
Sun Hat p.38
We’re sorry, the maths was wrong in this first section. The first 8 rounds should be as follows, and not as printed. You should be increasing by 12 sts each round until the end of Round 6, then increase by 7 sts in Round 7 and 5 sts in Round 8. You can then continue working from Round 9 in the printed pattern.
Ch6, ss into first ch to make a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), 23tr into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 sts]
Round 2 Ch3, 2tr in next tr (tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 sts]
Round 3 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, ch2, skip next 2 sts, (2tr in next tr, ch2, skip next 2 sts) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [48 sts]
Round 4 Ch3, tr in next 2 sts, 2tr in next st, (tr in next 3 sts, 2tr in next st) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [60 sts]
Round 5 Ch3, tr in next 3 tr, 2tr in next tr, (tr in next 4 tr, 2tr in next tr) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [72 sts]
Round 6 Ch3, tr in next 4 tr, 2tr in next tr, (tr in next 5 tr, 2tr in next tr) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [84 sts]
Round 7 Ch3, tr in next 10 tr, 2tr in next tr, (tr in next 11 tr, 2tr in next tr) around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [91 sts]
Round 8 Ch3, tr in next 16 tr, 2tr in next tr, (tr in next 17 tr, 2tr in next tr) 4 times, tr in last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 [96 sts]
We’ve also had a query about round 22 onwards, so we’ve checked that again. The printed pattern is correct, but this may help explain it further:
For Round 22, you are starting the round with 136 sts, and by the end of the round you should have 144 sts, an increase of 12 sts.
136 / 12 is 11 – the stitch repeat ‘uses’ 11 stitches, 2dc, skip 2, 2dc, skip 2, 2dc, skip 1, which is a total of 11.
You are still working 2 chain when you only skip 1 stitch on the last part of the repeat, effectively increasing by one stitch, so you will have 12 stitches worked over the space of 11 stitches from the previous round. This repeat occurs 12 times, giving a total of 144 sts.
Round 24 is also an increase of 12 sts, but this time, you need to increase by one stitch every 12 stitches. Each ‘cross stitch’ referred to is 2dtr, so you need to increase every 6th cross stitch, because this will total 12 sts in all. So every 6th cross stitch, between the 11th and 12th dtr that you work, you need to add an extra chain st to make the increase. So (complete 5 cross sts (10 dtr) work the 11th dtr, ch1, work the 12th dtr) repeat this 12 times.
Beach Hut doorstop, p.59
There is also a correction for the Beach Hut doorstop. After Row 46 of the Front Back, there should be an instruction to fasten off, instead of to turn.
Issue 19
Lacy Shawlette, p.27
The stitch count of Row 30 should be 175 sts. Row 31 should read as follows:
Row 31 Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2), skip 2 sts, (1dc into next st, ch5, skip 5 sts) twice, (2dc into next st, ch5, skip 5 sts, 1dc into next st, ch5, skip 5 sts) 12 times, (1dc into next st, ch5, skip 5 sts) twice, 1dc into next st, ch2, 1tr into last st, turn. [186 sts]
Issue 18
Child’s Dotty Jumper
.If you follow the pattern as written you’ll have the correct total number of rows to achieve the required length, but there should be another bobble row written into the pattern. The corrected version is below.
In the Medium size there’s also an extra row than should have been written; again, it’s corrected below.
Back
With Dark Turquoise, ch46 (49: 52).
Row 1 (RS) Tr in the fourth ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [44 (47: 50) sts]
Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st to end, turn.
Repeat the last row a further 0 (2: 4) times.
Work Rows 1- 12 of the Bobble Pattern twice.
Work Row 1 of the Bobble Pattern.
Work a further 4 (4: 5) rows of plain treble, as Row 2 of Back, fasten off. [31 (33: 36) rows total]
Issue 17
Cupcake Tea Cosy p.53
In the section marked ‘Cupcake Case’, you will need to work extra rows. After you split the case into two, work Rows 1 and 2 as written. Then work two rows as follows:
Next Row Ch2 (counts as htr), FPhtr in each BPhtr st from previous row, htr in each htr, working a FPhtr round the top of the beg ch-2 of the previous row, turn.
Next Row Ch2 (counts as htr), BPhtr in each FPhtr st from previous row, htr in each htr, working a BPhtr round the top of the beg ch-2 of the previous row, turn.
Work Rows 3 and 4 as written in the pattern, then repeat the two rows written out above.
Work Row 5 of the pattern and continue as written from this point.
Issue 15
Yoga Socks, page 25
The Notes say they’re worked from the ankle cuff down, but you start with the toe and work up.
Then the colours are in the right order: pink first (yarn C), then grey (yarn B), purple (yarn A) and back to grey (B) again.
Lacy Shawl p.74-75
Yarn quantities should read 3 skeins of each yarn, not 1.
The stitch count at the end of the Foundation row should read 117 sts.
Row 7 should be worked in Yarn A, not B as stated.
Potholder p.86
Row 3 should read:
Join Azure in the first st, ch5 (counts as st), ch4, skip 4 sts, 5ttr, ch5, skip 5 sts, 5ttr, ch4, skip 4 sts, ttr in last st, turn.
Round Cushion, p.27
The Front Piece ends up larger than the Back. To remedy this, work increase rounds on the Back in Rounds 24 and 25 as follows:
Round 24 Ch3, (2tr in next st, 16tr) around, omitting final tr on last repeat. [216 sts]
Round 25 Ch3, (2tr in next st, 26tr) around, omitting final tr on last repeat. [224 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
In our ‘shape’ feature for issue 15 (Bathroom Projects, page 69) we have some alternative pattern instructions; you may find these easier to follow:
Face cloth
Foundation chain 40 stitches.
Row 1: Ch1, dc into every st to end [40 sts]
Row 2: Ch3, (counts as tr), 1 tr in 4th in every stitch to end [40 sts]
Rows 3-4: as row 2 [40 sts]
Rows 5-7: Ch3, 1 tr into next 15 stitches, change colour to white, 7 stitches, change back to blue at top of 8th stitch, 16 blue trebles to end. [40 sts]
Rows 8-10: Ch3, 1 tr into next 7 stitches, change colour to white at top of 8th change back to blue at top of 24th to end, repeat [40 sts]
Rows 11-13: as rows 5 – 7 [40 sts]
Rows 14-16: Ch3, 1 tr in 4th st to end. [40 sts]
Row 17: Ch1, 1 row of dcs across the top of the work. [40 sts]
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Make-up bag
Foundation chain 40 stitches
Row 1: Ch1, 1 dc into every stitch [40 sts]
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1 tr in 4th
Row 3: Ch3, 11 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 12 navy [40 sts]
Row 4: Ch3, 9 navy trebles, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 10 navy [40 sts]
Row 5: Ch3, 11 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 12 navy [40 sts]
At the end of this section you should have 2 white crosses against a navy background.
Rows 6: Ch3, 39 navy trebles [40 sts]
Row 7: Ch3, 5 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 6 navy [40 sts]
Row 8: Ch3, 3 navy, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 4 navy [40 sts]
Row 9: Ch3, 5 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 6 navy [40 sts]
At the end of this section you should have 3 white crosses against a navy background.
Row 10: Ch3, 39 navy trebles [40 sts] This completes the first side.
Row 11: Ch3, 39 navy trebles [40 sts] Start of side two.
Row 12: Ch3, 5 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 6 navy [40 sts]
Row 13: Ch3, 3 navy, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 4 navy [40 sts]
Row 14: Ch3, 5 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 6 navy [40 sts]
Row 15: Ch3, 39 navy trebles [40 sts]
At the end of this section you should have 3 white crosses against a navy background.
ch from hook, 1 tr in every ch to end [40 sts]
Row 16: Ch3, 11 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 12 navy [40 sts]
Row 17: Ch3, 9 navy trebles, 8 white, 4 navy, 8 white, 10 navy [40 sts]
Row 18: Ch3, 11 navy trebles, 4 white, 8 navy, 4 white, 12 navy [40 sts]
Check! At the end of this section you should have 3 white crosses against a navy background.
Row 19: Ch3, 39 navy trebles [40 sts]
Row 20: Ch1, 1 dc into every stitch [40 sts]
Fasten off. Weave in ends at the back of the work.
Bath mat
NOTES: Because of the heavy use a bathmat is subject to, when changing colour, knot the ends at the back of the work securely in a double knot (the knots will disappear into the fabric), then weave in the ends tightly at the end.
Foundation chain 41 stitches
Row 1: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1 tr in 4th
Row 2: As row 1 [42 sts]
Row 3: Ch3, 7 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 8 navy [42 sts]
Row 4: Ch3, 5 navy, 6 white, 6 navy, 6 white, 6 navy, 6 white, 6 navy [42 sts]
Row 5: Ch3, 7 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 8 navy [42 sts]
Rows 6-7: as row 1, change colour to white at top of last stitch of row [42 sts]
Rows 8-9: as row 1, but in white [42 sts]
Row 10: Ch3, 13 white, 2 navy, 10 white, 2 navy, 14 white [42 sts]
Row 11: Ch3, 11 white, 6 navy, 6 white, 6 navy, 12 white [42 sts]
Row 12: Ch3, 13 white, 2 navy, 10 white, 2 navy, 14 white, change to navy at top of last stitch of row [42 sts]
Row 13: Ch3, 41 navy trebles [42 sts]
Row 14: as row 13, change to white at top of last stitch of row [42 sts]
Row 15: Ch3, 41 white trebles [42 sts]
Row 16: as row 15 [42 sts]
Row 17: Ch3, 7 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 8 navy [42 sts]
Row 18: Ch3, 5 navy, 6 white, 6 navy, 6 white, 6 navy, 6 white, 6 navy [42 sts]
Row 19: Ch3, 7 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 10 navy, 2 white, 8 navy [42 sts]
Row 20: Ch3, 41 navy trebles [42 sts]
Row 21: as row 20 [42 sts]
Fasten off. Weave in ends at the back of the work.
Bath cushion
Foundation chain 60 stitches
Row 1: Ch1, 1 dc into every stitch [60 sts]
ch from hook, 1 tr in every ch to end [42 sts]
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as tr), 1 tr in 4th
Rows 3 – 7: as row 2 [60 navy sts]
Rows 8-10: Ch3, 24 navy trebles, 10 white, 25 navy [60 sts]
Rows 11-13: Ch3, 14 navy trebles, 30 white, 15 navy [60 sts]
Rows 14-16: Ch3, 24 navy trebles, 10 white, 25 navy [60 sts]
Rows 17-22: as row 2 [60 navy sts]
Row 23: Ch1, 1 dc into every stitch until end. [60 sts]
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
ch from hook, 1 tr in every ch to end [60 sts]
Issue 14
Colour me Coral p.69
Small Heart: You do not need to turn at the end of Round 2, so Row 3 is worked on the RS.
We also had a query about the ‘centre st’ – in Round 2 – it says ‘dtr (centre st)’, meaning that the double treble just worked is the centre stitch.
Berry Beauty, p.55
Before sewing the side seams of the pockets, rejoin the yarn to the end of the scarf, which will be the pocket edge once it is folded, making sure that you are working on what will be the RS of the pocket when it is folded. Ch1, and work 3 rows of dc stitches across the end of the scarf, fasten off. Repeat for the other end of the scarf and then sew the pocket seams.
Issue 12
Happy Holly Days p.63
Round 2 should read:
Ch1, ss in each of first 2 sts, 3htr in next st, 3dc, htr, 3tr in next st, htr, 3dc, 3htr in next st, 2ss, ch1, turn to work down other side, 1ss, 3htr in next st, 3dc, htr, 3tr in next st, htr, 3dc, 3htr in next st, 2ss, ch2, ss in back of both ch just worked, ss in beg ch-1.
Fur Stole p.36
To clarify the measurement given for the Fur Stole, when finished, the stole forms a horseshoe shape and 170cm (67in) is the circumference of the outside edge.
Amigurumi Santa, p.85
Underneath the heading ‘Beard and Face’ it should read: With White, ch13.
Issue 11
Snuggly Socks on p.23/24
After Round 7 of the Leg, it should read “Repeat last round a further 13 times”, not the last 3 rounds.
Woodland Family pattern on p.47-49, which was also in 101 Quick & Easy Crochet Makes.
Large hedgehog
Round 30: there will be [36 sts] at end of round, not 39 as stated
Rounds 31-34: “Continue… decreasing 6 sts evenly”, not 3 as stated
Small hedgehog
Round 8: “(4dc, 2dc in next st)”, not (2dc, 2dc…) as stated
The pattern doesn’t say when to make the facial features, but using the large hedgehog as a guide, it should be inserted after Rounds 13-16 (it’s after Rounds 23-27 of large hedgehog for copying text)
ISSUES 10-1
Issue 10
Cosy Bear Cowl
We’re sorry, there’s a correction to this pattern:
The first asterisk on Round 3 of the Integrated Scarf should be deleted so that the round reads as follows:
Round 3 (RS) 1dc in marked ch-1 sp (add marker), *ch1, skip next st, 1dc into ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next st; rep from * to marked st, do not turn. [161 sts]
And here are some further instructions and a diagram to clarify the Integrated Scarf section of this pattern:
The 73 stitches picked up run around the entire base of the hood, from one front corner to the other. You then chain 87 which bridges the ‘gap’ at the front of the hood, and it is then joined to the other front corner. When you work on those 160 sts in the round you will be extending the length of the hood at the back, and at the front, you will have a strip 87 sts long which bridges the opening at the front.
Rose Quartz Jumper on page 40:
The number of chains to work was missed off the beginning of the Yoke section, and the stitch count at the end of the following line should read ‘dc’ rather than ‘tr’:
Ch123 (123: 123: 130: 130), turn.
Row 1 (WS) Dc into 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [122 (122: 122: 130: 130) dc]
Issue 9
Cream Jumper p.35
From the section marked ‘Front’ on p.37 onwards, the WS and the RS rows as stated in the pattern are the wrong way round. Every time a WS instruction is stated it should read ‘RS’ and vice versa.
Wall Art Ideas, Hoop Doilies, p.27.
The image of the doily labelled ‘01’ at the bottom of p.27 is Doily 2.
Doily One: Light Blue, p.28.
Round 4 Ch1, *1dc, 2dc in next dc; repeat from * to end, ss to first dc. [30 sts]
The stitch count at the end of Round 12 should read [27 dc, 27 ch-3 sp].
Issue 8
If you’re making the Aqua Poncho on page 60, here’s an extra diagram that our lovely Technical Editor, Cara, has supplied to give you some help with the making up.
The dimensions of the poncho can be found in the sizing table to the right on p.60. When you’re making up the poncho, match the two corners marked ‘A’ in the diagram, and join the two edges marked with the dotted line. Don’t continue this seam all the way along the edge, to leave a hole for your head.
Geometric Cushion, p.43. Square 1 and Square 2:
In Row 7, for both squares you should be working into the front loops only for the whole row.
Back Panel, Bottom piece:
In Row 7, apart from the 2 dc at each end of the row you will be working your dc stitches into the chain spaces of the previous row, rather than the actual chain stitch.
Garden Ideas, Jam Jar Covers, Filet Crochet Jar (3), p.25:
Rounds 6 and 7 should read as follows, where the skipped sts could be either tr or ch stitches from the previous round:
Round 6 Ch3, *ch2, skip 2 sts, 1tr into next tr; repeat from * to end of round, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 7 Ch3, (ch2, skip 2 sts, 1tr into next tr) twice, *3tr, (ch2, skip 2 sts, 1tr into next tr) 3 times; repeat from * to last 5 sts, 3tr, ch2, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Garden Ideas, p.25 and p.27
There is an error in the labelling of the Doily photographs. The Doily labelled ’02’ on p.25 should be ’04’, and the one labelled ’04’ on p.27 should be ’02’.
Issue 6
Here are the corrections for Cara Medus’ wine bottle cover featured inside issue 06. Thank you to those who spotted the mistake so we could get it corrected!
In Rows 18-22, it should not read ‘ss to top of beg ch-3’, as you are working in rows and not in the round. So….
From now on, work back and forth in rows.
Row 18 Ch3, tr2tog, 9tr, (tr2tog, 10tr) 3 times, turn. [44 sts]
Row 19 (ws) Ch3, tr2tog, 8tr, (tr2tog, 9tr) 3 times, turn. [40 sts]
Row 20 Ch3, tr2tog, 7tr, (tr2tog, 8tr) 3 times, turn. [36 sts]
Row 21 Ch3, tr2tog, 6tr, (tr2tog, 7tr) 3 times, turn. [32 sts]
Row 22 Ch3, tr2tog, 5tr, (tr2tog, 6tr) 3 times, do not turn. [28 sts]
Issue 4
We’re sorry but the length of the Tunisian crochet purse was wrong in issue 4. We stated that you should work in rows until it measures 32cm; it should be 16cm, which is 32 rows.
Issue 3
Hanging Basket
Yarn quantities: 3 balls of White (001)
Round 2 should read as follows
Round 2 Ch3, (2tr in next tr) around, tr in base of beg ch-3, ss to top of beg ch-3. [24 tr]
There was also a difference in the shaping of the basket. Rounds 1-4 read as they have been published (with the correction for round 2 above).
Rounds 5 – 13 as follows:
Round 5 Ch3, (2tr in next tr, 5tr) 7 times, 2tr in next tr, 4tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [56 tr]
Round 6 Ch3, 3tr, (2tr in next tr, 8tr) twice, 2tr in next tr, 9tr, (2tr in next tr, 8tr) twice, 2tr in next tr, 5tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [62-tr’s]
Rounds 7-10 Ch3, tr in each tr around, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 11 Ch3, tr, tr2tog, 54tr, tr2tog, 2tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [60 tr]
Round 12 Ch3, 2tr, tr2tog, 25tr, ch9, ss in tr at base of ch, 23tr, tr2tog, 3tr, tr2tog, ss to top of beg ch-3. [57 tr, ch-9 loop]
Round 13 Ss in each st around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Light Lacy Bolero on p.30.
The shaping section has been rewritten and a couple of errors from the original pattern are highlighted in red.
You can download the PDF here: Issue3LacyBolerocorrectedpattern
Step-by-step guide to Double Crochet Decrease (dc2tog).
The whole of step 2 should read:
“Without finishing the first dc, begin the next dc by inserting the hook in the next stitch on the previous row. Again, work yrh and pull loop through (3 loops on hook).”
Triangle Cushion p.69
Yarn quantity: 3 balls of Orange (74)
Issue 1
Chunky Cowl, p.56
The tension and measurements information were missed off this pattern. They read as follows:
Each row of the cowl forms the length of the cowl, and the top opening is narrower than the bottom. With RS facing the bottom edge will be at the beginning of the row.
Tension: 1 complete row of 25 sts meas the length of the cowl (33cm/13in)
Finished size (with cowl seamed and lying flat): Top opening 31cm (12in), bottom opening 54cm (21in), length 33cm (13in)
And there are corrections for the following rows:
Using 12mm hook ch26.
Row 1 1dc into second ch from hook, 1dc into next 5ch, 1htr into next 8ch, 1tr into each ch to end, turn. [25 sts]
Row 2 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into next 2sts, *miss 1 st, 1tr into next 3 sts, 1tr into missed st (mock cable worked); rep from * 4 more times, 1tr into last 2sts, turn.
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc into next 6sts, 1htr into next 8sts, 1tr into each st to end, turn.
Rows 2 and 3 form pattern. Repeat these two rows until the bottom edge meas approx 108cm, then work row 2 once more, fasten off.
Bracelets, p.74
At the end of Round 1 it should read: Rep this round 4 more times.
Baby Blanket, p.62
At the end of Rows 1, 3, and 5, the stitch count should read
‘[9 patt rep of (7-tr shell and 7 dc), 7 dc and 2 4-tr ‘half shells’]’
The stitch pattern is a multiple of 14 1. The 10 repeats of 14 sts are accounted for in this row by 9 full repeats and 1 repeat, which provides the half shells at either end of the row.
Pearly Queen p.46
The 4.5mm hook should not appear in the ‘You Will Need’ list. The pattern is worked with a 4mm (US G/6 hook).
Little Cherub p.77
On the diagram on p.78, the arrow to indicate the sleeve measurement should show the length of the underarm seam, not the total length of the sleeve piece.
Collection Specials
Amigurumi Collection (amigurumi 3) - 2020/2021
Lily the Lamb
The Ears have been omitted from the pattern. Please follow the instructions below:
EARS (MAKE 2)
Using Grey, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 4dc in loop. [4 sts]
Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc in next st) twice. [6 sts]
Round 3 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off and sew the final round close.
Sew the Ears to the Head, just below the Hair.
Ultimate Crochet Blanket Collection 2020
Illusion Blanket, p.109
The following abbreviation is missing from the pattern:
fdc (foundation dc) Ch2, insert hook into last ch from hook, yrh and pull through one loop on hook (ch-1 will sit at base of st), yrh and pull through two loops on hook, *insert hook into ch-1 at base of previous st, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and pull through one loop on hook, yrh and pull through two loops on hook; rep from * as indicated.
The pattern is also missing the first 3 rows, they can be found below:
With Black, ch2, leaving a 25cm tail. Row 1 (WS) Fdc into 2nd ch from hook, fdc in previous fdc 162 times. Fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [163 fdc] Row 2 (RS) Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in bl of next 9 sts, dc in next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats] Row 3 Join Black in first st with a standing dc, dc in fl of next st, (dc in each of next 9 sts, dc in fl of next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats] Row 4 Join Off White in first st with a standing dc, dc in next st, (dc in bl of next 9 sts, dc in next st) 16 times, dc in last st, fasten off leaving a 25cm tail, turn. [16 pattern repeats]
Your Crochet Christmas 2016
Bright Baubles p.83
Round 4 of the Ball appears to be missing, but there isn’t actually a round missing from the pattern, and Rounds 5-8 should be renumbered Rounds 4-7.
Crochet Celebrations
We have a correction for our special edition Crochet Celebrations magazine.
On Page 94, the yarn quantities for the Lacy Shawlette should read 8 balls of Rico Creative Cotton Aran.
On p.91 of Crochet Celebrations (and Issue 19 of Simply Crochet, p.23), for the Boho Waistcoat the stitch count on Row 4 of the Back should read 11 (12: 12: 13: 13: 14) bobbles.
On p.124 the chart for the Lace and Grace filet bunting on page 68 is the wrong chart, the correct chart is below:
Christmas Collection Corrections
Tickled Pink Hat, p31.
In the ‘To Finish’ part of the pattern, it should read ‘dc in bl across first row to join’ rather than ‘sc’. The pattern is written in UK terminology which does not have a sc stitch (US sc stitch is the equivalent to a UK dc stitch)
Mice Decorations, p109.
On the Basic Mouse Head instructions Round 8 and rounds 11-13 are wrong. Rather than saying repeat round 2, they should just say ‘dc in each st to end’.
On the Basic Mouse body instructions Round 11 and rounds 13 are wrong. Rather than saying repeat round 2, they should just say ‘dc in each st to end’.
Bell Fairy Lights, P.91
We’re aware that people have been stuggling to find the moulds for the bell lights. Here is a link where you will find some suitable ones (these moulds are slightly taller than those stated, but will still give you the same shape) – http://www.littlecraftybugs.co.uk/craft-supplies/polystyrene-shapes/bells.html
Amigurumi Collection
We’ve just produced a special edition, the Amigurumi Collection, and there is a mistake with the Santa pattern (originally from Simply Crochet Issue 12).
Underneath the heading ‘Beard and Face’ it should read: With White, ch13.
