If you’re hooking a project from Simply Crochet magazine then check here before you get started! We regularly update this page with our latest pattern and chart corrections.
Use the links below to jump to the project you’re working on or scroll down to browse each project.
Climbing Cables Jumper – p46
In the measurements table the yarn weight should be listed a 50g and not 100g. The yarn quantities listed are correct.
Carnaby CAL – page 51
There is an error with the stitch count for Row 16 of Half Circle, which should read as follows:
[31 3-tr groups, 16 ch-1 ss, 2 tr]
There is also an error on Row 3 of the Corner section, it should read as follow:
Row 3 2tr in sp before first 3-tr group, 3tr in sp before next 3-tr group, (3tr, ch3, 3tr) in corner ch-sp, 3tr in sp before next 3-tr group, 3tr in sp between last tr and dc, (dc, ch3, dc) in 11th sp, turn.
Cable Jumper – page 74.
There is an error in Row 7 of Front. It should read as follows:
Row 7 Ch1, dc in first dc, (FPtr around next FPtr, dc in next dc) 3 (1: 2: 3: 1: 2: 3) times, *skip 1 FPtr, (FPtr around next FPtr) 2 times, FPtr around skipped FPtr, dc in next dc, FPtr around next FPtr, dc in next dc; rep from * across to last 4 (0: 2: 4: 0: 2: 4) sts, (FPtr around next st, dc in next st) to end, turn.
Show us yours page, page 80
In the double tap section we incorrectly attributed the bird cushion image. This was in fact made by Gemma Maclennan (@crogemcrochet). We sincerely apologies for this error and the whole team absolutely loved Gemma’s make.
Chunky Jumper – page 30
There is an error in Row 4 of the stitch pattern. It should read as follows:
Row 4 Ch3, (3tr in sp before next 3-tr group) rep to last 2-tr group, 2tr in sp before final 2-tr group, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn. [61 (67: 73: 79) sts]
For the Back – Shape Shoulders section after Row 2 it should state:
Repeat Row 2 twice more. [21 (21: 23: 23) sts]
Granny Cardigan – page 55
For the One Coloured Square Motif the stitch count at the end of Round 7 should read: 27 tr on each side and 4 ch-2 sps.
The stitch counts at the end of Round 9 on all sizes should read: 35 sts on each side, 4 ch-2 sps.
There is a mistake on Round 15 of Leg. The instructions should read:
Round 15 Ch1, (htr in next htr, ch1, skip next dc) around, ss to top of beg htr.
Baubles Blanket pages 58-59.
The mtr sts are missing from Rows 69-70. Please see updated chart below:
Lacy Top, p.32
Row 2 should read:
Ch3, tr in next 36 (41: 46: 51) tr, ch2, skip next tr, tr in next tr, skip next tr, ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in next 3 sts, 2tr in next tr, ch2, 3tr in next tr, ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in next 3 tr, 2tr in next tr, ch2, skip next tr, tr in next tr, skip next tr, ch2, tr in next 36 (41: 46: 51) tr to end, turn. [93 (103: 113: 123) tr]
Geometric Shawl, p62.
Row 8 should read:
Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, *ch10, skip ch-10 sp, tr in next 2 sts….’
In Row 11, the repeat asterisk should appear before ch10, as follows:
‘Ch3, tr in next 4 sts, *ch10 skip (ch4, dc, ch4),…’. The repeat section in this row should also be repeated across to the final 5 sts.
You are instructed to repeat Rows 3-12 until the piece measures approx 30cm, and this should be until it is the measurement stated at the beginning of the pattern; approx 112cm.
Mariposa Shawl, p.63
Row 2 should read:
‘Ch8 (counts as ttr and ch3 throughout), skip octTr, dtr in next 2 ch, ch20, skip 20 ch…’
Crochet Christmas Supplement, p15
In the measurements table the yarn has been listed as 50g balls. This should read 100g as is stated in the ‘You Will Need’ at the start of the pattern.
Hook to Hook (Amigurumi Alijbre), p.61
Row 6 of the Belly should read As Row 5.
Toucan-Tiger Cushion, pages 20 and 95-96.
The chart for the Toucan design was incorrect. Here is the correct chart (please note, the tiger chart is correct)
Filet Crochet Collection, P20, p.25 and p.30
The yarn used for these patterns is Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush 50g balls, the 100g listed in the measurements table is an error and should be read as 50g balls.
Amigurumi Moomin, Pg 33.
The following rows in the Head section should read as follows:
Round 4 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [28 sts]
Round 5 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [35 sts]
Round 6 Dc in each st around.
Round 7 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 7 times. [42 sts]
Stylecraft Crochet Classics Supplement – Amigurumi Frog, Pg 33
Round 2 of Body should read:
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Pastel Elephant, Pg 22
The instructions for the Ears should read:
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into loop, do not ss to join, turn. [6 sts]
Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st around, turn. [12 sts]
Round 3 (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [18 sts]
Round 4 (Dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [24 sts]
Round 5 (Dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [30 sts]
Round 6 (Dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [36 sts]
Round 7 (Dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st) 6 times, turn. [42 sts]
Round 10 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 11-12 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 13 1dc in each st around, turn.
Round 35 of the Body should read:
(Dc in next st, dc2tog) 4 times. [8 sts]
Beaver Egg Cosy, Amigurumi Egg Cosy Supplement Pg 5.
The following instructions are missing from the Beaver egg cosy:
EARS (MAKE 2)
Using Ombre, make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) 3 times. [9 sts]
Round 3 Dc in each dc around. [9 sts]
There is no need to stuff the ear.
Flatten the base of the ear. Working through both layers, dc in each of next 4 stitches to close the opening.
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing each Ear to the Head.
Ombre Cardi, p.33
Puff Stitch should have been included in the Abbreviations list:
(Yrh, insert hook in st indicated, draw yarn through up to level of current row) 3 times in the same st, yrh, draw through all loops on hook.
After Row 2, you are instructed to repeat Row 2 a certain number more times. This should read ‘Work 21 (22: 23: 24: 25: 26) more rows as Row 2’ rather than what is written.
You are then instructed to work a final increasing row before the divide, which also includes adjustments on the Sleeves. After this row, the stitch count should be 294 (310: 314: 330: 346: 350) tr, 4 ch-2 sps, rather than what is written.
Mosaic Cowl, p.53. (charts on page 93)
The chart for this pattern is incorrect, here is the corrected version
Hook ‘n’ Learn, p97
Please note that the picture of the colour crafter blanket is actually the wrong way around (it is the back of the blanket that was photographed by mistake). Here is the correct picture to help you lay out your blocks.
Sweet Stitches blanket, pull-out pattern card
The chart is missing the key on the card, here is the correct version
Please note that you will require 2 balls of Silver (1203) for the scarf.
Rows 87-88 should read htr in each st across.
There are no tr sts used to make this Scarf.
Bobble hat, p.21
In the notes section on the bobble hat, we incorrectly advised that “Yarn as listed is enough to also make Melissa’s Scarf and Mittens in this set. The Hat is worked top down in the round.”
This is incorrect and you will require the quantities listed for each pattern. It is likely that you may be able to complete some of the smaller patterns like the mittens and scarf with just one ball of each of the rainbow colours, but to be completely safe of not running out please follow the quantities listed.
Yarn review bow motif, p.76
Pattern incorrectly states to ch136, this should say ch36
Spring Wreath from 2019 Calendar
For the Spring Wreath pattern the instructions say that you will need 1 ball of Rico Creative Cotton Ricorumi in the colour Coral (009). This is a mistake and the colour coral is not used in any of the wreaths.
Katie Jones Christmas Jumper, p.53-55.
We’ve been made aware that some of the recommended Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran shades have been discontinued or are out of stock. Below are some alternative yarns, please check the yarn lengths that are required and be aware that although we have tried to suggest similar colours they will be slightly different to those pictured in the magazine.
Caron Simply Soft (170g/288m)
Royal Blue (9767)
Berry Blue (9609)
Soft Blue (9712)
White (9701) – or Off-white (9702)
Stylecraft Special Aran(100g/196m)
Christmas Roses Magenta Blanket, p73-74.
The yarn quantities for this pattern are incorrect, they should be as follows:
Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% cotton, 50g/125m),
11 balls of Fuchsia (049)
6 balls of Ecru (003)
2 balls of Purple Bordeaux (050),
2 balls of Aventurine (079),
1 ball of Gold (089)
Naughty Elf, p14-18.
There is a misprint in the magazine regarding what is included in the Elf kit that accompanies the magazine. Below are the correct contents.
Included in kit:
Yarn A Flesh
Yarn B Green
Yarn C Red
Yarn D Brown
Yarn E White
Yarn F Gold
A pair of safety eyes
Black sewing thread
Not included in kit:
A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
Apache Tears Hook ‘n’ Learn ninth block, p95.
You may have noticed that the magazine instructions did not match up with our Youtube video tutorial which can be found here. Both the video and the written instructions in the magazine will work out correctly if used in isolation, but do not match up if used together. This is due to a left-handed/right-handed crocheting issue, which unfortunately we did not allow for. We do take accuracy very seriously and we are sincerely sorry for the confusion caused.
We would like to make it clear that this was an administrative error, and neither the designer nor Lou from Yarniversity were responsible for this – they have both done a great job!
To avoid any further confusion, you can find the version that will work with the video here, if you wish to use them together.
We hope you enjoy hooking the blanket.
Slouchy Hat, p44.
Round 26 has been mislabeled and should read as round 25. The pattern is not actually missing a round.
Colourblock Throw, p69-70
The stitch counts on Row 19 and on Rows 37-42 should read [106 sts]
Sloth Brooch, p27.
Yarn C should be Chocolate (057).
On the Circle Square Motif, Row 2 should read:
Row 2 (RS) Dc join Vanilla around the post of any st, BPdc around each st, ss to first st to join.
Please note that on Row 2 of the Circle Corner Motif it is correct when it says FPdc.
Patchwork Cosmos Blanket, p28.
The Blanket only requires a 5mm hook, and Round 5 on the Hexagon with Centre Star needs to be made in Yarn C.
Hook ‘n’ Learn Catherine Wheel Stitch.
The colour crafter block should measure 16x32cm (6¼ x 12½ in)
Crochet Edits Summery Shawl Supplement
Diamond Lace Shawl, p.23-25.
Row 7 should read:
Row 7 BR, V-st, 3tr in next tr, ch3, V-st, ER. [14 sts]
Mermaid Amigurumi, p.15
Yarn D is incorrectly listed as gold, is should say Yarn D: Lilac
Row 10 on the hair section should be corrected to the following:
Row 10 Ch6, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr ineachofnext3ch,skip1stfromRow9,ss in next st, ch7, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 4ch ,skip 1 st from Row 9,ss in next st, ch8, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 5ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch9, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 6ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch10, 3htr in third ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 3ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, (ch12, 2htr in 3rd ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 5ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st) 6 times, ch10, 3htr in third ch from hook, 2htr in each of next 4 ch, htr in each of next 3ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch9, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 6 ch, skip 1 st from Row 9, ss in next st, ch8, 3htr in third ch from hook, htr in each of next 5ch, ss in next st.
Lotus Flowers, p.22
The below section was missing from the pattern for the lotus flowers
Using Yarn A, ch5.
Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st) loop st in each st to end, turn. [4 sts]
Rows 3-6 Repeat Rows 1 & 2, twice more. Fasten off.
Loop st insert hook in stitch indicated, holding back a loop of yarn approx 4cm long, yrh and complete as for dc.
Beaded Curtain, p.26
The yarn quantities of the Maxi Sweet Treat yarn are incorrect, only 1 ball of each of the colours listed is required (not 4 as stated)
Mirror Frame, p.26
The mirror frame requires 1 ball of each of the Scheepjes Catona shades listed, and a small amount of Maxi Sweet Treat (incorrectly listed as Catona Maxi Sweet Treat) in each of the colours listed.
Floor Cushion, p.28
The dimensions of the mirrors are incorrect. The floor cushion requires 17 mirrors which are 1.5cm (0.6 in) in diameter.
Sporty Tee, p.30
We are aware that there are a lot of corrections for this particular pattern which may make it hard to follow. If you would like an updated version of the pattern which includes the following corrections, please send us an email to firstname.lastname@example.org
On the Left Back Opening, work up until the end of Row 4, noting that the stitch counts at the end of Row 4 should be 35 (36: 40: 42: 45: 48) sts.
Ignore the remaining instruction for the Left Back Opening and replace with the following:
Repeat Rows 3-4 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts.
This correction is the same for the Right Back Opening, so work up until the end of Row 4 noting changed st counts as above, then repeat Rows 3-4 until there are 11 (11: 12: 12: 13: 14) sts.
Work up to the end of Row 2 of the Raglan Shaping, where you should have 73 (77: 83: 87: 93: 99) sts as written.
Disregard the remaining shaping instructions up to the start of the Neck Shaping, and replace with the following:
Repeat Row 2 another 12 (8: 9: 7: 7: 8) times. [49 (61: 65: 73: 79: 83) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Repeat Row 2 another 13 (9: 9: 7: 8: 8) times. [23 (43: 47: 59: 63: 67) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
SIZE 8 ONLY
Go to Neck Shaping.
ALL OTHER SIZES
Repeat Row 2 another -(9: 10: 8: 8: 9) times. [- (25: 27: 43: 47: 49) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
SIZES 14, 16 AND 18 ONLY
Repeat Row 2 another -(-: -: 7: 8: 8) times. [- (-: -: 29: 31: 33) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Cont with the Neck Shaping for the Right Side as written.
Row 1 of the Left Side shaping should read as follows:
Row 1 (WS) With WS facing, skip next 12 (14: 16: 18: 20: 22) sts of last row of Front, rejoin yarn in next st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 10 sts, turn.
Replace the Right and Left Sleeve instructions up to the Raglan Border with the following:
With Yarn A and a 3mm hook, ch2, fdc 53 (57: 61: 69: 69: 75), working first fdc into 2nd ch from hook.
Row 1 (WS) Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr into each st to end, turn.
[53 (57: 61: 69: 69: 75) sts]
Rows 2-4 Repeat Row 1, 3 times more.
Row 1 (RS) Ss in first 3 sts, ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 6 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn leaving last 2 sts unworked. [47 (51: 55: 63: 63: 69) sts] Place marker in first ss and last unworked st to mark Raglan Border.
Row 2 (WS) Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [45 (49: 53: 61: 61: 67) sts] Row 3 Ch2, htr in each st across, turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 another 7 (11: 15: 7: 16: 9) times. [31 (27: 23: 47: 29: 49) sts]
For size 12, go straight to Neckline Shaping.
SIZES 8 AND 10 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [29 (25: -: -: -: -) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Repeat previous 3 rows another 3 (1: -: -: -: -) times. [23 (23: -: -: -: -) sts]
SIZE 16 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: -: 27: -) sts]
Repeat last row once more. [- (-: -: -: 25: -) sts]
SIZES 14 AND 18 ONLY
Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: 45: -: 47) sts]
Next Row Ch2, htr in each st across, turn. Next Row Ch2, htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in each st across to last 4 sts, htr2tog, htr in last 2 sts, turn. [- (-: -: 43: -: 45) sts]
Repeat last 3 rows another – (-: -: 5: -: 5) times. [- (-: -: 23: -: 25) sts]
Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, htr2tog, turn leaving remaining sts unworked. [6 sts]
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next st, htr2tog, htr in next st, fasten off leaving last st unworked. [4 sts]
Work as Right Sleeve up to Neckline Shaping.
Next row Rejoin yarn in 16th (16th: 16th: 16th: 18th: 18th) st, ch1 (does not count as st), htr in next 3 sts, htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts, turn. [6 sts]
Next row Ch2 (counts as st), htr2tog twice, htr in next st, fasten off. [4 sts]
The total number of htr groups for the Back border should be 15 (16: 17: 18: 19: 20).
The total number of htr groups for the Front border should be 16 (17: 18: 19: 20: 21), as the Front border is longer due to the Neck Shaping.
On the instructions for the Sleeve Borders and for Joining Raglan Borders, the shorter side will therefore be attached to the Back and the longer side to the Front, not the other way round as written.
Asymmetrical Poncho, p.56
Row 4 should read as follows,
Row 4 Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2), *skip 3tr of next block, dc in top of ch3 of same block, ch2, skip tr at base of ch-3, tr in next tr, ch2; repeat from * ending last rep with tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Chevron Cardigan, p.27.
Row 8 of Left Front; Armhole and Neckline Decreasing; sizes 8-10 and 16-20 should read:
‘Row 8 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in next st, (tr2tog) twice, work in Stitch Pattern to end, turn.’
On the Shape Armhole section on page 28, after the first 2 rows it should say
Sizes 8-10 and 12-14 fasten off.
Sizes 16-20 and 22-24 Dec 1 st at each end of next (3:4) rows.
Amigurumi Panda, p.39
The pattern is missing the tail instructions, they are as follows:
With Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st) 5dc into the ring. [5 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts]
Round 3 – 4 1dc in each dc. [10 sts]
Round 5 (dc2tog, 3dc) repeat twice. [8 sts]
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.
Sleeveless Top, p.64.
The sizing measurements that accompany the schematic are incorrect, they should be the following:
Width a: 48 (51.5, 55, 58.5)cm 19 (20 1/4, 21 3/4, 23)in.
Fanfare sleeves, p.68
The following rows were missing an asterisk symbol, the corrected rows are below.
Round 1 (RS) Ch2, tr in next dc (counts as tr2tog), *(ch1, skip next dc, tr in next dc) twice, ch1, skip next dc, tr2tog, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, tr in each of next 2 dc, ch2, skip next 2 dc, tr2tog; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Round 2 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, *tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, skip next tr, tr2tog over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch4, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, ch2, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Round 3 (RS) Ch2, tr in next ch-1 sp (counts as tr2tog), ch1, skip next tr, *tr2tog over next ch-1 sp and next tr2tog, ch2, skip next ch-2 sp and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch2, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp, skip next 2 tr and ch-2 sp, ch2, tr2tog over next tr2tog and ch-1 sp; repeat from * 5 times more omitting last tr2tog, ss to top of first tr to join.
Elephant Head, pattern booklet included with issue 69
Row 13 of the Shape Top of Ear (Page 11) The final stitch count is incorrect and should be 43 sts, not 112 sts as stated.
Round 5 of the Picot Flower Motif (Page 14) should read as follows: (2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts) 10 times. [30 sts]
Hook ‘n’ Learn Feature, p48-49
On the ‘Colour Crafter Version Only’ section at the end of the pattern, this should say Rows 6-39 (or until piece measures 32cm ending with an odd row). The Stone Washed XL version is correct in saying ‘until piece measures 40cm’
Easter Egg Pull-Out Pattern Card
On the Easter egg pattern card we say that you can watch a tutorial on how to make these eggs on our Youtube channel – this refers to the stiffening process using the balloons and PVA glue, and not the crochet pattern itself (although you can find separate tutorials for the individual stitches). You can find the PVA glue video here.
Ruffle Accessories Socks, p22
You will require 2 balls of the Yarn A Pumice for these socks. We think the small size may be possible with just the one ball, but we would recommend airing on the side of caution and making sure you have 2 to avoid disappointment.
Mandala Mat, p.24-25.
The mini mandala’s and decoration sections require the following colour chart which was omitted.
Lacy Cardigan, p.27-30.
There is a misprint in the sizing chart, the cardigan requires 10 (11, 12, 13) 50g balls of Wendy Merino DK (not 100g as stated).
Party Shark, p44-47.
The instruction to make 2 of the tail pieces has been missed off. You make two of the tail pieces, sew the first rounds together around the base once you’ve stuffed them, and then sew them on to the back of the Shark.
Hook to Hook gloves/mittens, p. 59-62.
The yarn colour codes are the wrong way around for both of these patterns, it should say
1 ball of Yarn A Chestnut (03)
2 balls of Yarn B Gold (09)
Ski Sunday Scandi Jumper, p.24-27
The icon at the top of the page is incorrect, the Drops Air yarn used is actually Aran weight The Yarn quantities on the sizing table are incorrect and should be. Yarn A – 7 balls (8 balls for size 16-18 and 9…
Braided hat by Lucy Croft, p.66.
Round 2 is missing from the Head section, below is the missing round.
Round 2 Join Yarn B in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next dc) 3 times, ch6, skip next ch-6 sp, tr in next dc, repeat from * around, omitting last tr, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. [9 (10: 11) 7-tr groups and 9 (10: 11) ch-6 sps]
Bougainvillea Shawl by Kate Alinari, p.62
Row 1 Ch3 (counts as a tr throughout), tr in third ch from hook, turn.
Rows 2-3 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. [2 tr]
Row 4 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [4 tr]
Row 5 Ch3, tr in each st across, turn. [4 tr]
Rows 6-27 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 11 times. [28 tr]
Rows 33-60 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 13 times. [62 tr]
Row 61 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [64 tr]
Rows 67-74 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 4 times. [78 tr]
Row 75 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [80 tr]
Rows 81-102 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 11 times. [107 tr]
Row 103 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [109 tr]
Rows 109-112 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 2 times. [119 tr]
Row 113 Ch3, 2tr in st at base of ch-3, tr in each st across, turn. [121 tr]
Rows 119-120 Repeat (Rows 4 and 5) 1 times. [129 tr]
Delphinium Shawl by Megan Hocking, p. 60-62
We have corrections for the following rows:
Row 10 Ch2, htr in st at base of ch, *2htr in next ch-2 sp, htr in next st; repeat from * to point, (2htr, ch2, 2htr) in point, **htr in next st, 2 htr in next ch-2 sp; repeat from ** to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [80 htr]
Row 22 Ch4 (counts as dc, ch3), skip 2sts, dc in next st, *ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across to point, (dc, ch3, dc) in point, dc in next st, **ch3, skip 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from ** to end, turn. [49 ch-3 sps]
Row 30 Ch3, *2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from * across to point, (tr, ch2, tr) in point, tr in next st, **2tr in next ch-sp, tr in next st; repeat from ** across to end, turn. [310 tr]
Row 36 Repeat Row 8. [79 5-tr groups, 2 3-tr groups]
Lacy Cardigan by Amanda Crawford, p.28 & 29
On the First Front, before the first Armhole, the last row you need to work is a WS Row 3, not a Row 1 as stated. This row will be worked from the shoulder towards the bottom hem.
The following instructions replace those written for the Armhole in the magazine, to make the armhole rows correct in pattern:
For the Armhole, place a marker in the 15th (16th: 17th: 18th: 19th) tr from the start (shoulder) of the last row, skipping the ch-sps. Armhole should measure 20 (21: 22.5: 23.5: 25) cm.
Next Row (RS) Repeat Row 1 to marker, turn leaving rem sts unworked.
Next Row (WS) Repeat Row 2, turn.
Next Row (RS) Repeat Row 3 to end, ch42 (45: 48: 51: 54) for opposite side of armhole, turn.
Next Row (WS) Repeat Row 1 to end, turn. [127 (127: 139: 139: 139) sts]
You can then follow these corrected instructions when told to repeat the armhole.
Puff Stitch Mitts by Hannah Cross, p.25
On the Mitts section, rather than repeating Rows 1 and 2 for rows 3-18, work the following rows instead.
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st) *(dc, ch2, 5htr-puff) in next ch-2 sp, ch1, rep from * to last Puff St, dc in top of beg ch-2, turn.
Rows 4-18 Repeat Rows 2-3 seven more times, repeat Row 2 once more.
Amigurumi Santa p.38.
On the LEG (MAKE 2) section, there is no round 15. This is a mistake with the numbering and the pattern remains unaffected.
On the BELT section, it should say ‘Using Yarn B’ rather than Yarn C.
Supernova Granny Blanket p.69.
On the JOINING and EDGING section, it incorrectly says to use ‘Pearl Grey’. This is a mistake and should say Gray Lilac.
Lacy Top, p.44.
In the Yoke section, Round 3 should read “2tr in first st, tr in each tr around working (tr, ch1, tr) in each of first 3 ch-sps and 1 tr in last ch-sp, ch1, ss to top of beg ch-3.”
Centrepiece Trees p.21.
The hook size required for this project is a 2.5mm hook.
Lacy Bauble Trio p.20
We incorrectly credited the Lacy Bauble Trio to Anne Egan, this design was actually by Hannah Cross.
Tartan Skirt p.25.
The yarn quantities for Yarn A should be 6: 6: 6: 6: 7: 7: 7 balls of Cherry for respective sizes 8-20.
When you reach the Waist Shaping, continue working in rounds and in the Stripe pattern as established.
Fox Hoodie p.55
The yarn quantities for Yarn A should read 4 (4: 5) balls of yarn for sizes 2, 4 and 6 years respectively.
On the Back, after working on the first side of the neck shaping, you will need to skip the central 20 (21: 23) sts instead of 26 (27: 29) sts as stated.
Hook to Hook Challenge Block Stitch Blanket on p.53
For this pattern the yarn quantities should read as follows:
Yarn A 5 balls of Light Grey (15)
Yarn B 1 ball of Lime (24)
Boho Mandala on p.25
Yarn D Toffee (3656) is listed but is not required and doesn’t appear in the pattern.
Filet Jumper on p.52
The yarn weight stated should be 4ply, and not DK.
The tension should be:
Rib – 26 rows of dc to 10cm (4in)
Filet – 8.5 mesh squares to 10cm (4in) and 9 rows to 10cm (4in)
It appears that the 4.5mm hook stated is also too large to achieve the tension stated. You could try a 4mm hook, or even a 3.5mm hook. It’s very important to work a tension swatch before you start to check that your hook size is giving you the tension stated in the pattern. Particularly in this case, where the 4.5mm hook is obviously too large, please do a test swatch to find out which size of hook will give you the tension stated above.
And the first row of the sleeves section is incorrect, it should read as follows:
Row 1 (RS) Ch5 (counts as tr, ch2 throughout), *skip ch-2 sp, tr in next tr, ch2; repeat from * to end, tr in last tr, turn. [30 (32: 34) mesh squares]
Here is an updated chart for the filet pattern.
Pedro the Donkey on p.43.
One of the brackets in the reins section is in the wrong place, it should read as following:
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, (htr in next ch, ch3, ss into the third ch from hook) until last 2 ch, htr in next ch, dc in last ch. [36 sts]
Frank&Olive Doughnut Dress on p.50
On Round 1 of the Skirt, all stitches are tr stitches; it should read ‘tr in each ch of the ch-6 of the underarm’ and not dc as stated.
The yarn quantities stated in the original pattern for Magic Mint are incorrect. 1 ball is required for all sizes. All other yarn quantities are given correctly.
The alternative yarn suggested (DROPS Love 5) is no longer available. DROPS Paris is a close match with 75m per 50g. So we would suggest 2 balls of Paris for the yoke for all sizes.
As we are working out a substitute yarn that is sold in 50g balls not 100g balls we have simply doubled the quantities, however, it may be that 1 ball is sufficient for the yoke on the smallest size and for the cream stripe. It is impossible to calculate this accurately from the original sample so we have erred on the safe side by doubling quantities.
If you are planning on using a yarn substitute other than those that we have recommended, please remember to check the meterage as well as the weight so that you don’t end up buying too much yarn.
The sizing of the dress is generous, it is designed to be loose-fitting. Please ensure your swatch meets the tension given in the pattern for the best outcome.
Easter Amigurumi Supplement
Gwendoline the Lamb, p.22
The abbreviation for Bobble should read:
(Yrh, insert hook into next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting hook in same st each time, yrh and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
Evangeline the Rabbit, p.7
There is some text missing at the bottom of the last column on p7. It should read ‘rejoin Yarn B with a ss to the first skipped st of Row 14’.
A Good Vintage granny cardigan.
For the starting chain numbers please see below.
Size 8-10: foundation chain of 173
Size 12-14: foundation chain of 197
Size 16-18: foundation chain of 221
Size 20-22: foundation chain of 245
And to clarify, when you’re working the sleeves, you should work until there are 50 rounds of the pattern, not including the first 3 dc rounds.
On the Back and Front, after the Armhole Divide and working the Right Front, you rejoin for the Back. On Row 2 (Decrease Row) and Row 3, the stitch counts for the largest two sizes should read 31 and 35 tr groups after Row 2 for sizes 16-18 and 20-22 respectively. This will make the counts for these sizes 32 and 36 after Row 3, and 28 and 32 after the repeats of Rows 2 and 3.
Due to unforeseen shade alterations by King Cole you may be unable to find the Silver yarn shade. So we recommend the following yarn shade substitutions for the A Good Vintage granny cardigan:
King Cole Merino Blend 4ply
Stone (904) to be replaced with Slate Blue (096)
Silver (036) to be replaced with Stone (904)
Slipper Socks, p.73
The stitch count at the end of Round 1 of the Leg should be the total number of tr not the total number of sts as stated. There are [29 (33: 37) tr] after Round 1.
January Blues mandala on page 96
The repeat section of Round 7 should read *ch6, skip next dc of Round 5, (tr, ch1, tr, ch1, tr) in next tr of Round 5; rep from * 6 more times, complete as written.
Pick ‘n’ Mix CAL pattern on page 33 (subscribers only):
After Round 8, there is a round missing. For this missing round, work as follows:
Join Yarn F with a ss to any ch-4 sp, (ch3, ss in next ch-4 sp) 24 times, working last ss in first ss of Round.
You will then continue working from Round 9 of the pattern, but instead of joining Yarn F as written (you are already working with it), ss into the next ch-3 sp before starting. Round 9 refers to ch-4 sps of the previous round, so these will be ch-3 sps instead, but the stitches themselves are accurate.
When you have finished there will be a total of 12 rounds in the pattern.
‘Top of the crops’ jacket by Ilaria Caliri.
With a bold silhouette, cropped sleeves, huge pocket and jumbo button, this is one heck of a jacket. It’s hooked in berry-coloured wool and wins big in the style stakes.
Please note, the yarn used is Lana Grossa Feltro, which comes in 50g balls. The measurements table lists 100g balls but the number of balls is correct for 50g balls (as listed in the ‘You will need’ section). So for size 8 you will need 14 50g balls, for sizes 10 and 12 you need 15 50g balls, and so on.
Lacy Snowflake, p.31.
The stitch count at the end of Round 3 should read ‘12 dc and 6 ch-4 sps’ and not ‘24 dc’.
Polar Bear Blanket chart, p.73
The colour chart itself is correct, but the rows have been misnumbered. Number 79 is missing along the top, and number 88 is missing on the left. This means there are a total of 90 rows, rather than 91, but as long as you work each row of the chart in sequence you will get the right result.
The yarn quantities should be 3 balls each of Yarn A Aspen and Yarn B White, not 5 balls.
Chevron Coat, p. 55
On the Yoke section, work Row 1, and then rows of Yarn C, Yarn G, and Yarn D as stated.
For the Small size go to the Yoke Shaping at this point [4 rows]. Continue for the other sizes working a Yarn D row.
For Medium size go to Yoke Shaping at this point [5 rows]. Cont for the other sizes working 2 more Yarn D rows.
For Large size go to Yoke Shaping at this point [7 rows]. For size XL work a further 2 rows of Yarn D and one of Yarn F [10 rows].
Chunky hat ‘A sweet treat’ and ‘How to read a pattern’ feature, p.79
Due to an editing error, the repeat elements of the pattern are missing. The sections of ‘How to read a pattern’ that cover the Crown and Adult Brim refer to this original version of the pattern.
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 8dc into the loop, ss to first dc to join. [8 dc]
Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), (puff st, ch1) in each dc around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [8 puff sts, 8 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 3 Ch2, 2htr in next st, (htr in next st, 2htr in next st) around to the last st, htr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [25 sts]
Round 4 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in each of next 5 sts, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [20 puff sts, 20 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 5 Ch2, htr in each st around. [41 sts]
Round 6 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in each of next 4 sts, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [32 puff sts, 32 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 7 Ch2, htr in each of the next 2 sts, htr2tog, *htr in each of next 3 sts, htr2tog; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [52 sts]
Round 8 Ch2, *(puff st, ch1) in next st, skip 1 st, (puff st, ch1) in next st twice, skip 1 st; rep from * around to last st, (puff st, ch1) in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [31 puff sts, 31 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 9 Ch2, htr2tog, *htr in next st, htr2tog; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [42 sts]
Round 10 Ch2, [skip 1 st, (puff st, ch1) in next st] 3 times, *[(puff st, ch1) in next st**, skip 1 st] 4 times ending last repeat at **; rep from * around, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [23 puff sts, 23 ch-1, ch-2]
Round 11 Ch2, htr2tog, *htr in next st, htr2tog; rep from * around to last 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join. [32 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Amigurumi Ghost, p.15
There are a couple of rounds missing from this pattern.
Work from Rounds to 1-13 as written. Then work the following rounds:
Next round (Dc2tog, dc in next st) 8 times. [16 sts]
Next round (2dc in next st, dc in next st) 8 times. [24 sts]
Continue with the rest of the pattern as written from Round 14.
Winding Ways Cable Jumper p.34
The stitch count at the end of Round 3 of the Shoulder Decreasing should read 168 (176: 190: 198: 212: 220) sts.
Jersey Girl Chunky Shrug p.54
The labels for the sizes in the table on p.54 should read ‘Small, Medium and Large’ in keeping with the references later on in the pattern. The measurements given on the schematic diagram are also incorrect; they should be the measurements for Length (arrow going from top to bottom of diagram) and those from Width Cuff to Cuff (arrow from side to side) from the table.
Here Comes Treble Asymetrical Shawl p.71
The increases should be at the end of the RS rows and the beginning of the WS rows as follows:
Work the htr sts in the following row into the ch sts, rather than the ch-sps:
Row 1 (RS) Ch2, htr in each st to last 3 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, 2htr in last st, turn. [2 sts increased]
Work the htr sts in the back loop only throughout:
Row 2 Ch2, 2htr in first st, htr in each st to end, turn. [1 st increased]
Row 3 Ch2, htr in each st to last 3 sts, 2htr in next st, htr in next st, 2htr in last st, turn. [2 sts increased]
Omit Row 4 of the Crossed Shell Panel on the final repeat.
Summer Shawls supplement:
Lace Shawl p.6
The stitch count at the end of Row 3 should read ‘7 sections of 22 tr and 6 ch-1 sps; 160 sts total’.
Lacy Top p.58.
On Row 4 of the Waistband, there should be a repeat asterisk as follows:
Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2), *tr into next ch-5 sp, ch2, tr into next dc,**…
The headings on the charts for the Main Stitch Pattern and the Waistband are the wrong way round, so the Waistband chart is the one at the top of the page.
Pansy Blue Butterfly pattern p.31
In Rnd 3, there should not be a second asterisk in the round. The repeat should be *ss into next sp between sts, 7tr into next ch-2 sp; rep from * 6 more times, ss to top beg ch-3.
You can also find a chart for this pattern below, if you find that easier to work from.
Camper Cushions p.27.
You will need 2 balls of Yarn A Cream, and not one as stated.
Baby Blanket p.74
Change back to Yarn B at the end of Row 65, and then Rows 66-89 should read ‘Repeat Rows 20-46’.
The row counts for the remainder of the pattern will be 3 rows out, but the pattern itself is correct.
Rounds 1-8 of the Body should read as follows:
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc into the loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [36 sts]
Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 sts]
Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [48 sts]
Rounds 2 and 3 of the Tail should read as follows:
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times. [18 sts]
Yarn reviews, p. 74
Sorry, we made an error in the price of the King Cole Giza yarn – a mercerised cotton 4ply. The RRP is £2.25 – £2.69, and the recommended hook size is 3.25mm/US3.
For more details visit www.kingcole.com or call 01756 703670.
Entrelac Cushion, Tunisian Crochet supplement p.17.
The instruction for how to work the Tunisian Increase (Tssinc) stitch has been missed out:
Tssinc (Tunisian Simple Stitch increase) in the next st
Insert the hook under the horizontal bar before the next st, pull up a loop and leave it on the hook, insert the hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, pull up a loop and leave it on the hook.
Baby Bootees, p.74.
Round 3 of the Sole should read:
Round 3 Htr in each of first 2 sts, 2htr in each of next 3 sts, 8 (9: 11) htr, (2htr in next st, htr in next st) 6 times, 8 (9: 11) htr, 2htr in each of next 3 sts, do not join. [48 (50: 54) sts]
Peephole Chevron, p.59
The Finishing Row should read as follows:
Finishing Row (not on sample) Ss in first st, *dc in next st, htr in each of next 2 sts, tr in each of next 2 sts, htr in each of next 2 sts, dc in next st, ss in each ch; rep from * rep from *, omitting last ss on final repeat and working ss into last st, fasten off.
Lace collar by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz
If you’re thinking of hooking this using Kidsilk Haze Shine please note you will need two balls, not one as stated in the pattern. It’s an luxury yarn, so if your budget can’t stretch to two balls you could use one ball of Rowan Shine as stated, and then buy one ball of Rowan Kidsilk Haze, which comes in exactly the same shade. Kidsilk Haze is less costly than Shine, and could be used to work Row 2, with Shine as Rows 1 and 3.
For another cheaper version, Scheepjes have a similar yarn to Kidsilk Haze called Mohair Rhythm. If you hooked the necklace in this yarn you could add beads rather than crystals for a similar effect.
Or if you still want to make it with just one ball of Kidsilk Haze Shine, you can tweak the pattern. The published pattern is written using 4 multiples of 14 sts + 1. You could try using 3 multiples of 14sts + 1, which is total of 43 sts, so the foundation ch would be ch43, plus an extra ch1 as turning ch for the beginning of Row 1. If you did this, for the ‘point’ of the pattern to be in the centre you would need to stagger the pattern repeat in a different way.
This chart (click to enlarge it) shows what would happen. The stitch pattern is the same as published but it starts the row in a different place. Obviously if you do this you will end up with a smaller collar piece, but you could use longer ribbons as ties instead of ch. It would also be worth using a 3.5mm hook instead of a 4mm hook to save yarn.
Green bobble jumper, p.40
Under the heading ‘Sleevehead Decreases’, the instruction should read ‘decrease one st at each end of the next 2 rows’ to achieve the stitch count written.
Baby dungarees, p.68
On the Leg Shaping, the rows have been misnumbered; there are no missing rows in the pattern. Rows 6-8 should be numbered Rows 4-6, and Row 9 should be Row 7. This applies to the Leg Shaping on both legs.
Lacy Shawl, p.60
At the end of Row 17, the stitch count should read 72tr, not 36tr.
Lacy Collar, p.52
Row 2 should read as follows:
Row 2 Ch7 (counts as tr and ch4), *skip next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch4, skip next 6 sts, V-stitch in next st, ch4; rep from * twice more, ch4, skip next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch4, skip next 6 sts, tr in last st, turn.
Amigurumi Penguin pattern on p.68.
On the Body of the Large Penguin, Rounds 7-11 should read Rounds 7-16, so there are five additional rounds of plain dc. Then continue as written from Round 12 to finish. After working the last round of the Body, continue working another 4 dc2tog before fastening off and sewing up the Head.
There is an update in the amount of yarn needed for the. It should be three balls of the red Cranberry yarn, as you use this to cover the wreath as well as make some of the flowers. Only 1 ball each is needed of Fawn and Grey.
Amigurumi Doll, p.18
Round 16 of the Head and Body should read (Invdec) 18 times. [18 sts]
Cabled Mitts, p.26
Row 8 should read like Row 6, so you will skip 3 tr, FPdtr in next 3 sts, FPdtr in 3 skipped sts.
Peachy Keen Tunisian shawl, p. 46
Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz used an extended stitch for this shawl, so there’s a ch1 at the start of each row and a ch1 after each TKS, TSS and TKS2TOG. Row 2 should read:
Row 2: FwdP: Ch1, insert hook into space before first st, tks, ch1 (increase made). *Tks in next st, ch1*. Rep from * to * across. RetP worked as listed in abbreviations column.
Rows 3-42: as printed.
Treble Jumper, p.60.
The stitch count at the end of Round 1 should read 88 (88: 94: 96: 102: 104: 108: 114: 120) sts.
Rounds 3-5 of the Neckband should read as follows:
Round 3 (WS) Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 6htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [77 (77: 83: 84: 90: 91: 95: 100: 105) sts]
Round 4 Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 5htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [66 (66: 72: 72: 78: 78: 82: 86: 90) sts]
Round 5 Ch2, htr in each of next 3 (3: 6: 3: 6: 3: 5: 4:3) htr, (htr2tog, 4htr) repeat to last 4 (4: 7: 4: 7: 4: 6: 5: 4) htr, htr2tog, htr in each htr to end, ss to top of beg ch-2. [55 (55: 61: 60: 66: 65: 69: 72: 75) sts]
Lacy top p.39
The following replaces the ‘Shape Neck’ section, up to ‘To Make Up’.
Row 1 (WS) Work Row 1 of the stitch pattern until you have completed the second group of 3dc, ch3, skip 1 dc, 3tr into next ch-3 sp, ch1, skip next 2 tr, tr in next tr, turn.
Complete first side as follows:
Row 2 Ch3, skip (ch-1 sp and tr), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, work in Row 2 of the stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 3 Work in Row 3 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, tr, ch-3), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, tr in last ch-3 sp, turn.
Row 4 Ch3, skip 3 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, continue in Row 4 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 5 Work in Row 5 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, 3tr, ch-3), 3tr in ch-3 sp, tr in last ch-3 sp, turn.
Row 6 Ch3, skip 3 tr, 3tr in ch-3 sp, continue in Row 6 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 7 Work in Row 7 of stitch pattern to last (ch-3, 3tr, ch-3), 3tr in ch-3 sp, ch3, dc in sp formed by turning ch, dc into third ch of turning ch, turn.
Row 8 Ch2, skip first dc, dc in next dc, dc in first ch-3 sp, ch3, skip first 3 tr, 3tr in ch-1 sp, continue in Row 8 of stitch pattern to end, fasten off.
Complete second side as follows:
Rejoin yarn with WS facing to the second treble group from the other side, joining in the tr nearest the neckline edge.
Row 1 (WS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 3tr in next ch-3 sp, work in Row 1 of the stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch6 (counts as tr and ch3), continue in Row 2 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-3 sp, tr in third ch of beg ch-4, turn.
Row 3 Ch3, 3tr in next ch-3 sp, continue in Row 3 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 4 Work as Row 4 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-1 sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 5 Ch3, 3tr in ch-3 sp, work as Row 5 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 6 Ch6 (counts as tr, ch3), 3tr in first ch-3 sp, continue in Row 6 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-3 sp, tr in top of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 7 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in sp created by last tr of previous row, dc in top of same tr, ch3, 3tr in first ch-3 sp, continue in Row 7 of stitch pattern to end, turn.
Row 8 Work as Row 8 of stitch pattern until 3tr have been worked in last ch-1 sp, ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, fasten off.
Now continue with Making Up instructions in published pattern.
Mandala Waistcoat, p. 52-55
When beginning first segment, instead of reading “With Poppy Red, ch8 ss into first ch to form a ring” followed by “Row 1 (RS) Ch9…” it should read:
Ch17, ss into 8th ch from hook,
Then follow the pattern as you would have after the ch9 (so dc into next ch, her etc). This will leave your yarn in the right place to create the segment.
Row 1 should read ‘With Mint, ch5 (counts as ch, tr, ch),…’
Little Monster Cushion p.48
The first paragraph is mistaken – the limbs are worked in htr and only the features (Cheeks and Eyes) are worked in dc.
Treble Tee p.83
On the Sleeves section, there are 2 too many sts in the foundation ch for the number of sts worked in the row, so start by chaining 48 (50: 52: 56: 60: 68). Thereafter the stitch counts will be 2 more than the actual stitch count but continue working as written until you have worked the first row of the Top Shaping, and have continued decreasing as instructed until 22 (22: 22: 22: 24) sts remain. Complete the Sleeves as written.
Simply Crochet, Issue 33, Supplement:
Round mandala blanket, p.4
Round 23 should read: Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first ss, *ch2, skip next ch-3 sp, dc in next ss, ch1, skip next ch-3 sp, dc in next ss; rep from * around, ss in first dc. [42 ch-1 sp and 42 ch-2 sp]
Then follow the pattern for Round 24 making sure you just 6tr in every ch2 sp and not any ch1 sp.
Round 24 Ss into first ch-2 sp, ch3, 5tr in same ch-2 sp, 6tr in each following ch-2 sp around, ss in top of beg ch-3. [252 sts]
Round 26 Ch1, *dc in back loop only of next 5 sts, skip next st, 3-tr cluster in skipped ch-1 sp of Round 23; repeat from * around, ss in top of first st, change to Grape.
Round 35 has been re-written – the stitch counts themselves were correct. Round 35 Ss between first 2 sts, ch3, 5tr in same sp, *skip 6 sts, 6tr in sp before next st; repeat from * around, ss in top of beg ch-3. [42 6-tr groups]
Round 54 should read:
Working in the back loops only: ch4 (counts as tr and ch1), skip 1 st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from * around, ss in third ch of beg ch-4.
There should be 2 stitches in this round for every 2 stitches in the previous round because the stitch count remains the same.
Ss between first pair of sts, ch3, tr in sp at base of ch, skip 1 st, (2tr between next pair of sts, skip 1 st) around, ss in top of beg ch-3, change to Parma Violet. [352 sts]
Bohemian Blanket, p.25
At the beginning of the pattern for the Narrow Half Diamond, there should be 4 rows of each of Anis and Hawaii, rather than the 3 stated. There are then 3 rows of all subsequent colours including the Hawaii and Anis at the end. This is to ensure that the diamonds are the right size to sew together with the other pieces.
Issue 33, main magazine
Patchwork Throw, p.16
Round 1 of the Edging states that you should work (2FPtr, ch2, 2FPtr) into the corner stitch. This will work on the first round, but thereafter you will be working into the ch-2 sps at the corners, so you will need to replace the FPtr sts with dtr stitches in order to work them into a chain space.
Lacy Cardigan, p.44
The correction replaces the whole of the Yoke section, and finishes before ‘Divide for Sleeves’.
With a 3.5mm hook, ch59 (61: 63: 69: 69: 71: 73).
Row 1 (RS) 2htr in third ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as htr), 11 (11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 13) Moss St beg with a dc, (htr, ch1, htr) in next ch, placing a marker in the ch, 31 (33: 35: 37: 37: 39: 41) Moss St beg with a dc, (htr, ch1, htr) in next ch, placing a marker in the ch, 11 (11: 11: 13: 13: 13: 13) Moss St beg with a dc, 2htr in last ch, turn. [63 (65: 67: 73: 73: 75: 77) sts including ch-sps]
Row 2 (Increase Row) Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), 2htr in st at base of ch, *Moss St in each st up to marker, always working tr in each dc and dc in each tr, (htr, ch1, htr) in the marked st, moving marker to ch of current row; repeat from *, Moss St in each st up to last htr, 2htr in last htr, turn. [increase by 6 sts, including ch-sps]
Repeat last row a further 2 (1: 2: 2: 2: 3: 4) times. [81 (77: 85: 91: 91: 99: 107) sts]
Next Row (Plain Row) Ch2, htr in st at base of ch, (Moss St in each st up to marker, htr in marked st moving marker to this st) twice, Moss St in each st up to last stitch, htr in last st, turn.
*Work 4 (3: 4: 4: 4: 5: 6) Increase Rows (as Row 2), followed by a Plain Row.
Repeat from * a further 3 (5: 4: 4: 4: 3: 3) times. [177 (185: 205: 211: 211: 219: 251) sts]
Work a further 2 (2: 0: 2: 4: 4: 1) Increase Rows. [189 (197: 205: 223: 235: 243: 257) sts]
Next Row Ch2, 2htr in st at base of ch, (Moss St in each st up to marker, htr in marked st moving marker up to this st) twice, Moss St in each st up to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. [191 (199: 207: 225: 237: 245: 259) sts]
Work 4 (2: 3: 3: 1: 4: 3) Plain rows, moving markers up. [Total of 30 (32: 32: 34: 36: 36: 36) rows for Yoke]
Sugar & Spice cardi pattern on p.66-68.
Row 8 should read: Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into back loop of each st to end, turn, changing to Yarn A.
Bertie Bear pattern, on p.36.
In the ‘Head’ section it should say to place the eyes between Rounds 9 and 10, not 23 and 24 as stated. Also, for the Pink Shawl, on p.40, Row 5 should read …(3tr in next ch-2 sp, ch1) 8 times, dc in next ch-4 sp;
Ripple Blanket on p.22-23
stitches should be worked into the back loops only!
If you’re hooking the Granny treble top – issue 30 – we have some extra help from our lovely technical editor, as several readers were confused by the instructions for the arm shaping.
Cara says “It looks odd that the first row increases by 2 clusters and the following rows only by 1, but it does work out this way if you follow the pattern as written. On this sketched chart, the rows of the main pattern are at the bottom of the chart, and the increases for the arm shaping are explained at the top of the chart.”
Long Sleeved Top, pg. 32
We’re sorry that there is a small mistake in the ‘You Will Need’ list for this pattern.
Yarn weight should read Aran, not 4ply. The stated hook size of 3mm is correct.
Lacy Shawl, p.58
The 5mm hook should not have been listed in the ‘You Will Need’ column. The entire pattern is worked on a 4.5mm hook.
Also, on Row 7, the shells should be worked in the ch-2 sps of the previous row, not ch-3 sps as written in the pattern.
Amigurumi Doll, p.64
The last round of the Dress, Round 17, should be worked in treble stitches and not dc as stated.
Embellish Cuff, p.66
Rows 2 and 3 should read as follows:
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc into each of the next 4 sts, *(dc, ch7, dc) into the next st, dc into each of the next 7 sts; repeat from * across omitting the last 3 dc on the final repeat, turn.
Row 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), dc into the next st, skip 3 sts, *9dc into ch-7 sp, skip 3 sts, dc into the next st, tr in the next st, dc in the next st, skip 3 sts; repeat from * across omitting the last dc on the final repeat, turn.
Spike Stitch, on page 51.
Please note that the Basic Spike Stitch Pattern is correct as written, but you will need to fasten off the yarn and rejoin the new colour at the end of each row.
Spike Stitch Legwarmers
For the Legwarmers, use 3 balls of the shade used for the rib edges and 2 balls of the contrast shade.
Beaded shawl, page 60
At the beginning of Row 10, instead of ‘Ch3’, it should read ‘Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2)’.
Shaun the Sheep, p.49
Round 2 of the Face should read (5dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [14 sts]
Cabled Cardigan, p.41
On the Sleeves, after repeating Rows 5-12, it states that there should be 43 rows in total. There are actually 44 rows at this point, but all of the other maths details in this section are correct.
In addition, the 3-st cable pattern should be as follows:
Row 1 3dc.
Row 2 3dc.
Row 3 3FPtr.
Row 4 3dc.
Row 5 Skip 1 FPtr, 1FPtr in each of next 2 sts, 1FPtr into the skipped st, working in front of the existing sts.
Row 6 3dc.
Work Rows 3-6 as many times as required by pattern.
Hexagon Shawl, p.37
In the shades of yarn listed, Plum should be replaced with Rosehip (2474)
Christmas Tree pattern on page 27.
Round 39 should read:
*2dc in next dc, dc in next 14dc; repeat from * around. [64 dc]
Mouse Toy, p.64
On the Head, work Rounds 12 onwards as follows:
Round 12 (4dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 13 (3dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 14 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 15 (dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts]
Round 16 (dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Tunisian Shawl, p.43
The repeat instructions after Level 3 should read:
Repeat (Levels 2 and 3) a further 4 times, changing to next largest hook size before each Level 2. [11 levels in total]
To clarify the hook sizes used for each level, Levels 1, 2 and 3 are worked on a 5mm hook, Levels 4 and 5 on 5.5mm, Levels 6 and 7 on 6mm, Levels 8 and 9 on 6.5mm and Levels 10 and 11 on 8mm. All of these sizes are listed in the ‘You will need’ column at the beginning of the pattern.
We’re sorry, we have a correction for issue 24 of Simply Crochet. There’s an error in the printed copies, on page 94. The chart for the Cosy Cushion (page 25) is missing the row of white flowers across the centre, so the chart should look like this:
This was an error in the printing, so if you have downloaded the digital edition of issue 24, this won’t affect you.
Hot Water Bottle Cover, page 27
There is a critical bit missing from Row 3 of the cuff. Row 3 should read as follows:
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in back loop only of each dc across, skip next st of Round 49, ss in next st of Round 49, turn.
Without skipping every alternate stitch of Round 49 you will end up with a cuff that is too big.
Yarn reviews, page 80
We’re sorry, the ball weight/meterage for Wendy Ramsdale is incorrect; it should say 50g/112 m.
Snuggly Socks, p.23
Do not work Rounds 17-19 of the Leg, after Round 16, skip to Round 20.
Tissue Box Cover, p.26
After working Rounds 1-3, there is another round labelled Round 3, which should be Round 4.
Purple Jumper, page 55.
In the Waist Shaping section, after Rounds 2-4, the repeat instruction should read as follows:
Repeat Rounds 1-4 two more times. Work Round 1 once more.
Fear not chart lovers! Here’s a handy chart to go with the written pattern for Elisabeth Davis de Herriaz’s shawl featured in issue 22 of Simply Crochet.