Retinol vs collagen: which is better for reducing visible signs of ageing?
Retinol and collagen – both important building blocks in our bodies – are skincare ingredients that have been transforming the beauty industry with promises of more youthful-looking skin. But which one really delivers? Let’s dive into what these wonder products are and how they work.
Retinol is actually a form of vitamin A, specifically vitamin A₁, a fat-soluble nutrient found in food such as eggs, butter, liver, mackerel and salmon. Our body naturally uses retinol and other forms of vitamin A to support vision, cellular development, maintenance of skin and mucous membranes, immune function and reproductive development.
Used topically in skincare, retinol helps neutralise free radicals in the middle layer of your skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and enlarged pores. It also reportedly increases the thickness and elasticity of your skin, slows the production of melanin, reduces inflammation and prevents clogged pores. It can be used as a treatment for skin conditions such as acne, pigment disorders and plaque psoriasis, too.
However, it’s a potent ingredient that does come with conditions. The first risk to consider is that it can be harsh on the skin when used in high doses. That’s why serums and retinoids come with percentages of strengths on the label – so that we can begin with a low percentage and work our way up.
With more frequent use, the skin builds up more tolerance. Retinol ‘purging’ can occur when you first start using products with vitamin A, which is typified by redness, peeling, and general skin irritation, especially where the skin is the thinnest around the nose and mouth.
In general, a retinol purge happens once and takes about two to four weeks to complete, depending on your skin type. It’s a totally normal part of the process and the results are worth it!
Always use sunscreen with retinol-based products
The second effect of retinol to be aware of is the potential for sun damage. Using retinol on your face in high doses can mean you'll sunburn more easily, which spells big problems for your skin - undoing the good work of a tailored skincare regime! This is because retinol stimulates the production of new skin cells and turns over the dead ones, and this process can make skin more sensitive to UV rays. So, it’s best practice to always use sunscreen with retinol-based products, as you should be for optimal skin health regardless!
It’s worth saying that research shows there’s no evidence to back up claims of photo-allergies or photo-toxicities with retinol, in fact too much sunlight can stop retinol products working altogether. To be on the safe side, many people prefer to use their retinol products at night, before bed, for optimal effects.
A third point to remember is that excessive vitamin A is not good for pregnant women and their developing babies. Vitamin A plays a vital role in fetal development, which means high levels of it may interfere with the body’s finely tuned process. For the same reason, it is not advised to use retinol while breastfeeding either.
But don’t worry if you have been using retinol- based skin products without realising the professional advice is not to – brands have to be extra cautious. The level of Vitamin A in your serum will be far lower as a topical ingredient than a retinol oral medication such as isotretinoin (used to treat acne) for example, which has been shown to cause birth defects.
Now let’s look at collagen. Collagen works because it's one of the most abundant proteins in our body, giving structure to our skin, ligaments, bones, and even our digestive lining. However, starting in our 20s, we begin losing collagen every year. That’s when you start noticing things like fine lines, less elasticity in the skin, and creaky joints.
The skincare industry has been keen to harness this wonder protein, but results vary. Kevin Rail, a health coach and fitness nutrition specialist for more than 25 years explains, “Collagen creams can make your skin feel soft and smooth, and they give a short-term glow. But from a biological standpoint, they’re kind of like putting a patch on a flat tire. The molecules in collagen are just too big to get through the outer layers of your skin and into the deeper layers where collagen is actually needed. So, while topical products can help with hydration and appearance, they won’t rebuild the collagen structure in your skin.”
Avoid smoking and overexposure to the sun
On the flip side, Kevin says taking collagen orally – as a hydrolyzed supplement – is a totally different story. “When collagen is broken down into peptides (basically smaller pieces), your body can absorb it through the digestive system. Those peptides get distributed throughout the body and act as raw materials to build and repair tissue. We’re giving our bodies the amino acids they need to trigger fibroblasts – the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Think of it like watering a plant: you’re giving it the nutrients it needs to grow and thrive again. This isn’t just good news for skin; I’ve seen improvements in hair, nails, joint comfort, and even gut health. But I’m a big believer that a supplement alone doesn’t do all the work,” Kevin continues. “I always encourage people to back it up with a collagen-friendly lifestyle. Eating bone broth, chicken skin, or fish with the skin on gives you natural sources of collagen. And if you pair that with foods rich in vitamin C – like oranges, strawberries, or bell peppers – you’re giving your body the co-factors it needs to turn those amino acids into actual collagen.”
Kevin also advises helping your collagen supplement along with regular exercise, that helps improve circulation, getting the nutrients where they need to go. He says he advises his clients to avoid smoking and overexposure to the sun, which also protects your body’s ability to produce collagen naturally.
“From where I stand – as someone who’s dedicated my life to health and performance – the most innovative approach is the most balanced one,” says Kevin. “Don’t rely on creams to do all the work. Take a well-absorbed supplement, eat for collagen support, and keep your lifestyle in check. When you do that, the benefits go far beyond just what you see in the mirror. You feel it – inside and out.”
So, best ways to use each? With retinol skincare, start slowly with a low-strength product, such as a serum, around 0.1% to 0.3% (The Ordinary has a great one priced at just £7.40 at Boots). Apply a few drops to clean, dry skin at night, after your cleanser, and gradually increase frequency as tolerated, always following with moisturiser and using sunscreen during the day.
Some people use the ‘1-2-3 Rules of Retinol’ as a beginner’s guide – apply once a week for the first week, twice a week for the second week and three times for the third, after which you can use it daily.
For your collagen supplement, there are three main sources of ingestible collagen to choose from: bovine (beef), plant-based and marine. “Bovine collagen is a processed protein with specific amino acid compositions usually with a high concentration of glycerine,” cosmetic nurse Nina Prisk of www.update-aesthetics.co.uk explains. “Plants do not have naturally occurring collagen like animals. So plant-based collagen is generally made from a variety of plant sources that make up a complete protein and have a high amount of vitamins and fat, which boost your body’s collagen production. Marine collagen usually comes from the fish skin, scales and bones. Marine collagen supplements have high collagen levels which absorb well into the body. It’s also classified as a Type 1 Collagen which is the type that’s most common in the human body.
“I would advise looking out for companies that obtain their bones and tissues from free-range sources that are antibiotic free,” Nina continues. “Structurally, it doesn’t matter if the collagen is from fish, cows or chicken. However marine collagen is the purest and many believe the safest form. It can be more expensive because it’s extracted from cold water fish. If collagen is hydrolysed it means that the amino acid chains have been broken down and this makes it easier for the body to digest it so it’s a good idea to look for that. There are a lot of collagen supplements around now and they vary hugely in quality so it’s important to look for where in the world it’s coming from. Some believe that those coming from some other countries are cheaper because they’re poorer quality, largely because of the more relaxed controls and standards of manufacturing.”
A retinol-rich diet
Retinol is ‘preformed’ Vitamin A, which means it’s an active form of the vitamin that the body can directly use. It’s found in animal products such as liver (a particularly rich source), oily fish, egg yolks, dairy milk, yogurt, cheese, and butter. So how does someone with a vegan get their retinol quota?
Plant-based food contains Provitamin A Carotenoids and these compounds (such as beta-carotene and lycopene) are converted into vitamin A by our bodies. Foods rich in carotenoids include brightly coloured fruits and vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, kale, bell peppers, tomatoes, cantaloupe, and butternut squash. They say, ‘eat the rainbow’ and this is why! To get plenty of pigment-giving carotenoids.
Teatime
If you’re looking for a comforting way to add more collagen into your diet, make yourself an anti-ageing cuppa…
White tea
Hailing from the same plant as black, Oolong and green teas, white tea is made slightly differently. Leaves are picked from the plant when they are very young – before they’ve even opened – and they are dried before they have a chance to oxidise.
Because the leaves aren’t so heavily processed, there are many more antioxidants present than in other teas, especially polyphenols and catechins. That means lots of free-radical busting powers, which protects your skin’s collagen levels, reducing wrinkles and promoting a youthful glow.
Rooibos tea
From the red bush of South Africa, Rooibos is full of antioxidants too, and several minerals, such as zinc (an excellent skin calmer) and a unique flavonoid called aspalathin, which has been shown to improve blood sugar control, reduce inflammation and potentially protect against certain diseases.
This distinctive wonder tea is also high in Vitamin C, which helps to repair collagen and connective tissue. And it’s caffeine-free! So help yourself to another cup.
Hibiscus tea
If you’re looking for an all-rounder, Hibiscus tea is a contender. It’s made from the calyces of the Hibiscus plant, which is the leaf-like structure that protects the flower bud. It has a slightly sour taste (great for an iced tea) and is packed with Vitamin C and flavonoids for that collagen-protecting hit.
Its antioxidants include myricetin, which actively inhibits the enzyme collagenase, collagen’s nemesis. Hibiscus also has anti-inflammatory compounds and a cholesterol-balancing effect. Some studies suggest that drinking this tea may also help with weight loss by increasing metabolism and promoting fat burning.
The positives of going plant-based
It's the latest trend among celebrities, bloggers and athletes, but could a plant-based diet really be the best way to stay healthy? Find out more and get expert opinions with Gathered.
