The -150°C facial that firms your face
Strange skincare trends come and go – from slugging to injecting salmon sperm – and now people are willingly freezing their skin with air colder than Antarctica. Cryotherapy facial, or “frotox,” sounds like science fiction, using pressurized liquid nitrogen to rapidly cool the skin to subzero temperatures in the name of beauty.
But cryotherapy isn’t just another gimmick. It has been around for decades in medical and sports settings and is now transforming skincare. Originally invented in 1978 to combat arthritis pain, it quickly became a wellness tool for professional athletes and lifestyle enthusiasts.
Just as cryonics is associated with defying death – freezing human bodies in the hope of resurrection in the future – a cryo facial seeks to defy the science of ageing. Promising brighter skin, less puffiness, tighter pores, and a post-treatment glow.
What is cryotherapy?
Cryotherapy is controlled exposure to extreme cold, and in skincare, that means directing very cold, dry air onto the face to trigger a response in the body.
‘It’s about rebalancing the skin rather than simply cooling it,’ explains Justine Masters, The Alternative Facialist. ‘This thermal response helps oxygenate the tissue, reduce internal heat, and encourage the skin’s natural healing processes, guiding it back to a healthier, more balanced state.’
When your skin is exposed to intense, dry cold, your body goes into a mild defence mode. The cold shock signals to the brain that we’re in danger, stimulating our healing processes – blood vessels constrict, circulation shifts – and then, when the cold is removed, everything rushes back.
‘It speeds up all the processes,’ explains Alla Pashynska, one of the pioneers in Cryo-Stimulation, who opened her ICE Health Cryotherapy clinic back in 2009.
‘Most importantly, it improves our blood and lymphatic circulations, hence our blood flow can deliver more oxygen, nutrients, hormones, anti-inflammatory substances, endorphins, which benefits clients with more energy, better sleep, depression, anxiety, blood pressure, and so much more.’
Pashynska outlines the three main types of cryotherapies:
- Cryosurgery: ‘When doctors use pure liquid nitrogen to treat skin problems like skin tags. As it’s destroying the skin tissue, it’s called surgery.’
- Cryocooling: ‘This only works with temperatures 0°C and just below - from -5 °C up to -50 °C - and it's always humid cold, including treatments like cool-sculpting.’
- Cryo-stimulation: ‘This stimulates everything on a cellular level. Which is only achievable with temperatures way lower than -100 °C, but to manage those low temperatures, the cold has to be super dry.’
What a cryotherapy facial feels like
If you're nervous at the prospect of how -155C feels on the skin, Pashnyska says not to worry, ‘You won’t believe how relaxing it is – we have clients falling asleep during our facial.’
Because the air is dry, it doesn’t have the biting, icy feeling you might expect. Instead, it feels like an intense and refreshing coolness – like a cold breeze in the depths of winter.
Pashnyska’s signature RejuvICE facial combines cryo-stimulation, LEDs, and high-frequency muscle electro-stimulation for a 40-minute treatment.
‘Our Cryofacial isn’t your usual one,’ notes Pashnyska. ‘It’s my own machine, which I’ve developed with the team of engineers and doctors. We start with 20 minutes of our Cryostimulation at 155C, followed by 10-15 minutes of red and green LED probes. We then finish off with another five minutes of Cryostimulation to open the blood vessels.’
The skincare benefits
The intense cold temperatures constrict blood vessels and improve circulation, which triggers a plethora of anti-ageing benefits.
‘As we age, a natural decline in blood microcirculation impairs the ability to produce collagen,’ explains Pashnyska. She reports witnessing dramatic skincare improvements in her clients including reduced inflammation, regulated hormones, and collagen and increase elastin production.
‘Cryotherapy works beyond the surface by supporting the skin’s internal systems,’ says Masters. ‘It improves lymphatic flow, which in turn can soften the appearance of a double chin through drainage and sculpting. At the same time, increased circulation supports collagen activity, helping to soften fine lines and leave the skin looking clearer, calmer, and naturally lifted.’
The key benefits of cryotherapy:
1. Reduced inflammation
Enhanced blood flow delivers more oxygen, nutrients, and anti-inflammatory substances to the skin. ‘This seriously benefits those with acne, rosacea, eczema,’ notes Pashnyska.
‘The most noticeable benefits are a temporary reduction in puffiness, a calmer look to redness, and a more even surface appearance, which can help make-up sit more smoothly,’ adds Dr. Nora Albaldawi, an advanced facial aesthetician and Principal Dentist at Skintique Beautiful Smiles.
2. Detoxification
Increased circulation also improves our ability to flush out toxins, enhancing cellular health. ‘It is worth being realistic about pores,’ notes Albaldawi. ‘Pores do not physically shrink, but if oiliness and swelling are reduced, they can appear less obvious.’
3. Improves elasticity
The dry cold air is thought to trigger cell renewal, increasing fibroblast activity and the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin. This helps to tighten the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and sagging skin.
However, Albaldawi warns that the collagen boosting effect is modest at best: ‘Any improvement in firmness is usually short-lived unless it is part of a broader, consistent skincare and treatment plan,’
4. Brightening
‘Microcirculation can temporarily enhance colour and radiance,’ says Albaldawi. The combination of more oxygen and nutrients reaching the skin, along with improved cell renewal and hydration, promotes a bright, radiant complexion. It can even lighten dark under-eye circles.
5. Increased product absorption
After a cryo facial, the skin may better absorb the active ingredients in your serums and creams. The cooling treatment increases the skin permeability, creating a more receptive surface and helping to seal in products for optimised results.
Botox vs Frotox
Though both procedures aim to reduce the signs of ageing, their methods and benefits differ completely. ‘Botox relaxes the muscles, but does nothing to improve our microcirculation, collagen, elastin, and hydration,’ explains Pashnyska.
Paralysing the muscles for up to four months, Botox is a toxin-based injection that prevents wrinkles through temporary paralysis. A cyro facial, by contrast, is non-invasive, using cold air to boosting blood circulation.
‘The skin feels tighter and healthier. It also reduces puffiness and lightens our eyes' dark circles,’ Pashnyska adds.
However, Albaldawi warns that a cryotherapy facial isn’t a direct replacement for Botox. ‘It doesn’t affect muscle movement, so it cannot replicate the wrinkle-softening effect of Botox on expression lines,’ she explains.
So, it you want a completely smooth forehead, cryotherapy can’t take Botox’s place. But if you want your skin to look fresher, lighter and more alive, without injections, “Frotox” could be the answer.
Masters recommends pairing the facial with other stimulating treatments and products to optimise the effect. ‘When using the Fusion Go by Plasma Pen, the results are enhanced, creating a visible tightening and lifting effect,’ she explains.
Also pointing to Marine collagen 5% ultra firming serum by Reco Labs for further firming and lifting – ‘I like to call this The Alternative Facelift!’. The benefits are also thought to build over time, with Pashnyska recommending a run of ten sessions to see the best results.
What are the side effects of cryotherapy?
Though cryotherapy is generally considered safer than Botox – no needles or chemicals – it does still have its own risks and should be practiced safely by a qualified professional.
‘Most side effects are mild and temporary, including redness, tingling, numbness, dryness, or a tight feeling afterwards,’ explains Albaldawi. ‘If the cold is applied too intensely or for too long, there is a small risk of cold injury such as a superficial burn, which is why controlled settings and proper technique matter.’
There are also some people who should avoid the treatment:
- Anyone with cold sensitivity conditions (like Raynaud’s)
- People with very reactive skin that flares with temperature changes (like rosacea or eczema)
- Those with certain cardiovascular conditions (like high blood pressure or heart disease)
- During pregnancy or breastfeeding
This is not a DIY treatment. The intense cold can leave light bruising, blistering and mild swelling. More serious side effects like discolouration, frostbite or superficial nerve damage, though rare, have been reported. So, it needs to be practiced properly, by someone who knows exactly what they’re doing.
Top tips to know before you try a cryotherapy facial:
If you’re thinking about booking in, a few things to keep in mind.
- Go somewhere reputable. Always book with a licensed, qualified aesthetician.
- Have a consultation first. Your skin may react differently.
- Don’t expect a one-and-done miracle. It works best of a course of around 8-10 sessions.
- Ensure the environment is right. Controlled, ventilated conditions are essential.
- Use good skincare alongside it. Pair with collagen-boosting serums and stimulating treatments to maximise and prolong effects.
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