Mosaic crochet is a surprisingly easy way to create colourful fabrics with two yarn colours. The technique produces an on-trend geometric effect, reminiscent of tiled floors.
Mosaic crochet is similar to interlocking crochet and you might see the two names used interchangeably, but there are important differences to note. With mosaic crochet, you’ll work two rows with one colour before changing to a second colour and working two rows with this, and so on, working two rows with each colour. These rows will mostly be worked in double crochet, but to create a tiled effect with these pairs of rows, you’ll also work chain lengths and a special stitch called a mosaic treble.
Check out our video to see how it’s done, or see below for our step-by-step image guide. For more free projects and inspiration sign up to our newsletter!
The mosaic treble is worked in front of chain stitches on the row below (in a contrasting colour), into skipped dc stitches of the same colour three rows below. We’ll explain just what you need to do and how to do it in this tutorial, as well as how to work from a chart.
If you’re not familiar with any of the abbreviations used in the tutorial, you can find everything you need to know in our Crochet Abbreviations and UK/US conversion guide.
How do I get started with Mosaic crochet?
You just need two yarn colours to work mosaic crochet.
To get started, you just need two yarns in contrasting colours and an appropriately sized hook – we used DK yarn in pink (Yarn A) and cream (Yarn B) with a 4mm hook. You’ll also find it helpful to have four stitch markers.
Start by using Yarn A to make two rows of 22 double crochet stitches. To do this, ch23, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each dc across. On the final dc of the second row, change to Yarn B on the final yrh, turn and your work should look like this. At the end of every even row on a mosaic crochet piece, you’ll need to change to the contrasting colour yarn on the final yrh of the final dc. There’s no need to cut the yarn though, you can just carry it up the side or back of the work instead.
Now work Row 3 with Yarn B: ch1, dc in the first 3 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc and mark these 2 sts with stitch markers, dc in each of next 12 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc and mark these 2 sts with stitch markers, dc in each st to the end.
Turn and continue with Yarn B for Row 4: ch1, dc in each of the first 3 dc, ch3 over the top of the ch-3 sts on the row below, dc in each of next 12 dc, ch3 over the top of the ch-3 sts on the row below, dc in each of rem dc to end, changing to Yarn A on the final yrh of the final dc. Turn and your work should look like this. Now you’ll be ready to try making a mosaic treble…
How do I work a mosaic treble?
Creating a mosaic treble stitch is a great new skill.
Now you’re ready for the fun bit: making a mosaic treble (abbreviated as mtr). The stitch markers and the ch-3 lengths show where you’re going to place mosaic trebles on the next row.
What’s a mosaic chart?
Discover how to take your next steps.
Now you’ve worked mosaic crochet rows – made up of dc stitches, chain lengths and mosaic trebles – the next step is being able to use a chart that sets out where to place each of these stitches to create a specific mosaic pattern.
Here’s the charted version of the pattern we’ve been working.
Each square represents the size of 1 dc stitch, but not every square is worked as a dc stitch. We’ve drawn some elongated rectangles to show you where the mosaic trebles are worked instead of dc to create the pattern. In practice, you’ll only use the chart as a guide for where to skip dc sts and work chain lengths instead – otherwise you can just read your fabric for what to do: dc into each dc, dc into each mosaic tr, and where you encounter a chain length, look 3 rows down and work a mosaic tr into a skipped dc.
How do I use a mosaic chart?
It’s easy once you know a few simple rules to get you started.
To practise using a chart, let’s work Row 7 from the chart above, reading the squares from right to left.
This is a Yarn B row and the first 8 squares are in Yarn B, over Yarn A squares, so simply ch1 and dc into each of the first 8 dc.
The next 2 squares are in Yarn A – since this is a Yarn B row, you need to skip 1 dc for each square, so skip 2 dc and ch3 instead. The length of your chain is equal to the number of sts skipped, plus one extra so that the fabric doesn’t pucker. If this was a Yarn A row and there were 4 squares in Yarn B, you would skip 4 dc and ch5.
Next you’ll encounter a ch-3 length. Look 3 rows down for 2 skipped dc and work a mosaic tr into each. If you’re not sure how many dc were skipped, refer to the chart. The next 2 squares are in Yarn A so work as given in Step 2. The final 8 squares are in Yarn B (over Yarn A squares) so work as given in Step 1.
Turn and you’ll be working a simple even row. Just ch1 and dc into each dc or mtr, and chain over each chain. So Row 8 is: ch1, dc into each of first 8 dc, ch3, skip ch-3 length, dc into each of 2 mtr, ch3, skip ch-3 length, dc into each of next 8 dc, changing to Yarn A on the final dc. Turn and your work should look like this.
To work more rows, just follow the rules set out above. Row 9 would be: ch1, dc in each of first 8 dc, mtr in each of next 2 skipped dc from Row 6, ch3, skip 2 dc, mtr in each of 2 sk dc, dc in each of next 8 dc
Continue as set, working the rest of the chart. The final 2 rows should form a neat border, so end on the same colour you started with and omit any skipped dc and just work dc or mtr sts. See the bottom of the page for how the finished piece compares to the chart.
How do I make my own Mosaic crochet charts?
Have fun creating your own mosaic crochet patterns.
Follow these guidelines and suggestions for making your own chart, then set your imagination free!
- You can make charts with squared paper and a pencil, or with an app where you can colour in the squares.
- Start by making a chart with simple two-row stripes, then plan your vertical links.
- Start and finish with two plain rows of dc.
- To anchor the stitches of a row, the first and last dc must be worked in the main colour: Yarn A for Yarn A rows, Yarn B for Yarn B rows. If necessary, add these sts to each end of the row.
- On a Yarn A row, you can’t place Yarn B squares over Yarn A squares, and vice versa on Yarn B rows.
- For a more pleasing look, it’s best to make the vertical links at least two sts wide.
- Remember that dc stitches are not square, so the finished 2 piece will look wider than the chart once hooked up.