The real reason you have dark circles (and what actually works to treat them)
Dark circles are very common, showing up after a night of heavy drinking, poor quality sleep or just general exhaustion. The under-eye area can take on a bluish-grey hue, sometimes with visible broken blood vessels, and may become swollen or irritated. These aren’t the only reasons dark circles show up, though, and when there’s no obvious cause, it can be especially frustrating.
Often, we’re led to believe that a magic (and expensive) serum will answer all our problems, yet this is usually not the case. However, the good news is that a lot can be done to improve the appearance of dark circles, and you can start today.
The first step is understanding what’s causing your dark circles. Identifying the underlying reason can help you target your treatment and pinpoint specific triggers. Dark circles can be part of your genetic makeup, or the result of skin stressors such as alcohol, smoking, sun damage or even allergies. Neil Laird, specialist optometrist at Pure Optical, explains: ‘Dark circles are one of the most common skincare concerns, and the reality is that they’re rarely caused by just one thing.’
It’s easier than you think to work out what’s behind your dark circles, and we’ll dive into the most common causes, then take a look at easy changes you can start making right now that will improve your dark circles.
8 of the most common causes of dark circles
1. Poor sleep
Dark circles are often associated with tiredness, and their appearance can certainly give that impression. Although fatigue isn’t always the culprit for dark circles, a bad night's sleep certainly won’t be helping.
A continuous lack of quality sleep can cause dark circles, and you might also find that your eyes feel puffy and look red. As Neil Laird explains, ‘Sleep deprivation weakens the skin's barrier function, leaving the area looking even more fragile and tired.’
A poor sleep can also inhibit your skin from repairing itself overnight. Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Adel, explains how not getting enough can raise cortisol levels, stating that people who regularly get less than 6 hours of sleep a night can be more susceptible to dark circles and other skin issues.
It can be difficult to improve sleeping habits, but consistency is key. Make sure you have a bedtime routine which indicates to your brain it’s time for sleep, for example, you might do your skincare routine and read a book. If you struggle to fall asleep, practice mindfulness or meditation to help you relax, and avoid going on your phone.
Chronic sleep issues, such as insomnia, are more complex. It's best to consult your doctor to determine the most appropriate course of action.
2. Ageing
Ageing can take its toll on your under-eye skin. Annie Davies, clinical nutritionist at Body Fabulous Health Clinic, reveals: ‘As we age, skin loses collagen and becomes thinner, making dark circles more visible. Fat loss around the eyes can also cause a hollowed appearance, casting shadows.’
While we can’t stop the clock, we can do certain things to slow the ageing process. Eating a healthy, balanced diet, staying hydrated, reducing stress and lessening or avoiding bad habits, like alcohol and smoking, will all help.
3. Genetics
One of the primary causes of dark circles is genetics. If you notice your parents or siblings have prominent dark circles, then it’s likely you will too. It can be down to the bone structure of your face; if you have a more pronounced facial structure, it can cause shadows under your eyes.
‘You can also inherit traits like naturally thinner under-eye skin from your parents, which makes the blood vessels underneath more visible. In these cases, it’s not that the skin itself is darker, but that the structures beneath are easier to see, creating that shadowy look,’ specialist optometrist, Neil Laird, explains.
Genetics play a big role in our appearance, so dark circles in this case can be more stubborn to treat, however, there are certainly lots you can do to lessen their appearance, whether that’s through healthy habits or the right skincare and makeup.
4. Diet
It’s often said that you are what you eat, and the same is true for your skin. The food we put into our bodies plays a significant role in skin health, including the delicate under-eye skin. Ensuring you get all the necessary vitamins and minerals is essential to reducing dark circles.
Since your diet directly affects skin health, it makes sense that this also includes the skin under your eyes, too. ‘Improving your diet and getting the right nutrients can help reduce the appearance of dark circles, especially if they’re related to poor circulation, thin skin, or nutrient deficiencies,’ explains Clinical Nutritionist Annie Davies.
5. Stress
Stress is often the culprit behind many problems, both mental and physical. Occasional stress is a normal part of life, but it can still affect your skin. As Annie Davies warns, ‘High cortisol, often due to stress exposure, can increase blood volume, making blood vessels under the eyes more prominent, which can contribute to the appearance of dark circles.’ To minimise stress, ensure you get enough sleep, eat well, exercise, and maintain other healthy habits, like practising mindfulness.
If you suspect stress is contributing to your dark circles, it's important to address the underlying cause. Whether through the techniques mentioned above or by seeking professional support, managing stress can help improve the appearance of your skin, along with many other benefits to your health.
6. Allergies
Allergies can cause our eyes to become red and itchy, but this is usually temporary. However, Annie Davies advises, ‘Allergies can trigger the release of histamines, which cause blood vessels to dilate and become more visible. Rubbing your eyes can also worsen dark circles.’
If you suspect you might get hayfever or you know the pollen count is high, it’s best to take an antihistamine right away, and use hydrating eye drops throughout the day to stop you rubbing your eyes.
7. Sun exposure
It’s well documented that UV rays are harmful to our skin, especially to the delicate under-eye area. ‘UV exposure can increase melanin production, causing pigmentation to darken under the eyes,’ Annie Davies explains.
It’s important to use an eye cream with high SPF protection, ideally one formulated specifically for the delicate skin around the eyes. When out in the sun, wearing sunglasses can also help protect your eyes from harmful rays, just make sure they offer UV protection.
8. Other lifestyle factors
We know things like smoking and heavy alcohol use aren’t very good for our health, but they also can have a detrimental effect on our skin and eyes. Both of these habits can worsen dark circles by affecting circulation, hydration and overall skin health.
Curbing the bad habits will allow your skin to recover, and you’ll notice your complexion is brighter and more youthful over time.
How your diet can improve dark circles under eyes
Getting the right vitamins and minerals can improve your skin. While eating a healthy, balanced diet is important, it’s not just about hitting your 5-a-day. In addition to a nutritious diet, certain vitamins and foods can be especially beneficial in improving skin health.
According to a medical study, several vitamins and minerals can improve skin and signs of ageing. While these won’t precisely target your dark circles, they can improve the skin's appearance overall, reducing their prominence.
Vitamin C
Eat your oranges! Vitamin C is a big player in skin health since it helps protect your cells, and according to the NHS, it assists in maintaining healthy skin, blood vessels, bones and cartilage.
Oranges aren’t the only source of vitamin C. Try green pepper, broccoli, blackcurrants, and Brussels sprouts.
Riboflavin (vitamin B2) and Niacin (vitamin B3)
There are several types of vitamin B, and it’s important to include them all in your diet. However, B2 and B3 are especially beneficial for skin health. Vitamin B2 can be found in milk, eggs, and mushrooms, while B3 is present in fish, meat, and wheat flour.
Both of these vitamins have been studied for their anti-ageing properties and their impact on skin health, meaning getting enough of them could help improve the overall appearance of your dark circles.
Vitamin D3
Vitamin D is important for healthy bones. But there have been some studies to suggest that it also plays a role in skin health and the ageing process.
Our body produces vitamin D through sunlight, but if you live in an area with limited sun or during the winter months, taking a supplement can be beneficial. Vitamin D3 can be more effective because it closely mirrors the type of vitamin D our skin naturally produces. Vitamin D can also be found in certain foods, such as oily fish, fortified cereals, and egg yolks.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E helps to maintain healthy skin and eyes. It can be found in plant oils, nuts and seeds, and you should be able to reach your daily requirement through your diet.
Omega-3 fatty acids
Foods like oily fish, chia seeds and rapeseed oil are all great sources of Omega-3. BBC GoodFood explains: ‘These fatty acids are anti-inflammatory and may help alleviate skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. They also form the building blocks of healthy skin.’
The best way to get Omega-3 is through food, as evidence around the effectiveness of daily supplements is mixed. Adding more of these healthy fats to your diet is a reliable way to support overall skin health and may help reduce the appearance of dark circles.
Collagen
Collagen is a protein in the body, the primary building block for skin, muscle, bones and connective tissue. Your body creates collagen, but this production decreases as you age, and due to certain external factors, according to Cleveland Clinic, this includes smoking, UV damage and sugary or processed foods.
Collagen can’t be absorbed in your body in its whole form, but certain foods help to stimulate your body to create collagen. There have been studies showing that taking collagen supplements can improve skin hydration and elasticity. It was also found that the best source of collagen was fish, in particular fish skin, which effectively improves skin hydration.
There’s a lot of buzz about collagen face and eye creams, however, there’s very little evidence that when applied topically, it has much effect on collagen production in the body.
Keep hydrated
You might have guessed that water would be on the list. Dehydration is one of the biggest causes of dark circles. When we don’t drink enough water, our skin becomes duller, and it’s especially noticeable around the eyes, since the skin is thinner.
The general guidelines are to make sure you drink 6-8 glasses of water per day. Sugar-free drinks, tea and coffee all count, but it’s worth limiting your caffeine intake due to its dehydrating properties.
Skincare that can brighten your eyes
Adding a few of these skincare products into your daily routine can help brighten the skin around your eyes and your whole face. As with any change in your skincare routine, be sure to do a patch test. Some of these may also cause skin irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Retinoids
Retinol or retinoids are derived from vitamin A. According to studies, retinoids can promote collagen synthesis, improve skin firmness and quality and decrease melanin. The overall result is smoother, brighter skin.
In one scientific study on topical treatment of dark circles, retinoids proved most effective for reducing dark circles, with 68.75% of 80 patients reporting improvement after 12 weeks.
Retinoids can be powerful, so it’s also best to patch test a small area first. You should also build up slowly, starting with a low strength to allow your skin to build a tolerance.
Peptides and Ceramides
Peptides are used to promote the formation of collagen and, therefore, improve skin quality. In the same study, 50% of people saw an improvement in their dark circles.
The study revealed, ‘The combination of peptides and ceramides was particularly effective, with 75% improvement, suggesting a synergy between these ingredients for combating dark circles.’
Look out for eye creams containing both ingredients to reap the benefits.
Vitamin C
In the same study, vitamin C was also tested, and 50% of participants reported seeing improvement in wrinkle reduction when using it. Vitamin C is also known for its brightening properties, which could help improve the appearance of dark circles.
Products containing vitamin C can be potent, so if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to use them sparingly or opt for a product with a lower concentration of the vitamin.
Topical caffeine
Caffeine eye cream, when applied to the skin, can be an effective way of treating dark circles caused by a lack of sleep or general tiredness. However, if your dark circles are genetic or pigmentation-related, it likely won’t completely solve the issue.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid can improve your skin's moisture levels, it’s also milder than others on this list, so is less likely to cause irritation. Choosing a hyaluronic eye cream that also contains caffeine is a great way to combat dull, tired eyes.
Concealing dark circles using makeup techniques
Using makeup and concealers is the least invasive way to cover dark circles, and it can be effective when paired with a solid skincare routine.
Mineral foundation is a great option to blend into the under-eye area to hide dark circles. Look out for light diffusing options since they are designed to absorb and scatter light across the skin, hiding visible flaws.
You can also use the colour wheel to neutralise unwanted tones on your skin. For example, if you have redness under your eyes, a green concealer can help cancel it out. If your dark circles are more pronounced, a yellow-hued concealer is a great option.
In the video below, you’ll see an example of colour correcting on a medium-light skin tone and how choosing the right shade can make a noticeable difference in achieving a natural-looking finish.
What to do when nothing seems to banish the dark circles
If you’ve tried and tested all the potions, lotions and a super healthy diet but nothing seems to shift the bags under your eyes, then opting for a professional treatment could help.
It’s important to remember that dark circles are very common and often a genetic trait. However, if you find it’s affecting your self-esteem and happiness, then it could be worth looking into cosmetic options.
Dr Sonakshi Khorana, GP, explains: ‘Tackling dark circles caused by medical conditions, ageing and the structure of your face can be tricky to treat – there’s only so much skincare can do to improve their appearance.’
There are a few options to help treat these types of dark circles, Dr Sonakshi Khorana says. Laser treatments, chemical peels and injectables (dermal fillers) can all help improve dark circles, however, no treatment is guaranteed to work, and it’s worth considering the cost before diving in.
There are other options available, especially if you’re not keen on needles. Medical-grade skincare is available through a dermatologist, where your skin will need to be assessed before offering you a personalised skincare plan. Though not typically offered by a GP, you can ask for a referral to a specialist, or you can go private.
All of these options can be costly, so it’s worth considering whether there’s anything else you can change in your lifestyle that might help improve your dark circles before making a big decision.
If you have any sudden changes to your dark circles or accompanying problems with your vision, consult your doctor.
Unlock better sleep with these expert-backed tips
There’s nothing more frustrating than struggling to fall asleep. Discover expert advice and science-backed strategies to help you get the restful night’s sleep you deserve.
