How to do corner to corner crochet

Corner to Corner crochet is a fun and easy stitch technique, find out how to C2C crochet in our handy step-by-step guide!


Once you get the hang of it, corner to corner crochet is really easy, which makes it perfect for beginners or quick projects – there are only a few stitches to learn and the fabric grows quickly. We’ll show you the basics of how to corner to corner crochet (alternatively called how to C2C crochet), including increases, decreases, rectangles and colour changes.

What is C2C?

Corner to corner (or C2C) crochet is a great technique for creating colourful pieces. The fabric is made up of squares worked in diagonal rows, starting in one corner and finishing in the opposite corner (hence the name). The technique is brilliant for creating fab colour effects using variegated yarns, especially yarn cakes. The square construction also makes it great for creating charted designs (blankets made from charts are often called ‘graph-gans’), which results in some eye-popping geometric patterns.

If you’re not familiar with any of the abbreviations used in the tutorial, you can find everything you need to know in our Crochet Abbreviations and UK/US conversion guide.

How to Corner To Corner crochet

We’ll begin our ‘How to C2C crochet’ tutorial with making the first square of your pattern. To get to grips with c2c crochet, let’s make an easy practice piece of 3×3 squares. We’ve used DK yarn and a 4mm hook, but you can use any yarn and hook you like. Our squares will be made up of 3 trebles and one 3-ch length (which doesn’t count as a stitch), but you can use longer stitches to create larger squares – for example, for double treble squares, use 4dtr and one 4-ch length.


Step 1

Our practice piece will follow this diagram, starting with Square 1. We’ll work the squares in diagonal rows, without fastening off, starting with square 1 and finishing with Square 9.



Step 2

To start making the first square, chain 6 (if making trebles, as we are – add a chain for dtr, or subtract one for htr, or two for dc, then adjust Step 3 according to which stitch you’ve chosen to work with).

How to Corner to corner crochet - How to C2C crochet - start_step02


Step 3

Skip the first 3 chains and treble into the 4th chain from the hook, then treble into the next 2 chains. This completes the first of your c2c squares, and it will appear in the bottom left-hand corner.

How to Corner to corner crochet - How to C2C crochet - start_step03

Step 4

To help you follow what we’re doing, here’s a stitch diagram of the 9-square piece that we’re going to make. It might look complicated, but it will make sense if you follow it along with the written instructions.


How to increase in corner to corner crochet

Here’s how to make an ‘increase row’ of squares

To make your piece bigger, you need to increase the number of squares, so the next diagonal row of our piece has 2 squares. To start any new row, you need to turn your fabric, then rotate it 90 degrees clockwise, so that the working loop is in the bottom-right of the fabric. On our practice piece, the wrong side will now be facing.

Step 1

To work an increase at the start of a row, ch6 (if working trebles).



Step 2

As before, skip 3 chains and treble into the 4th chain and the next 2 chains.



Step 3

To secure the square and get the working loop in the right place for making the next square, work a slip stitch into the top-right of the adjacent square: insert the hook into the 3-ch space of the adjacent square, yrh and pull through the sp and the  loop on the hook. This completes the square (Square 2 in our example).



Step 4

To start the next square, ch3.



Step 5

Work 3 trebles into the 3-ch space of the square below. If there was an adjacent square, you’d slip stitch to it in the same way as Step 3 – if not, this square counts as an increase at the end of the row.



Step 6

To make another increase row in your c2c fabric, follow the same process for the next diagonal row (Squares 4, 5 and 6 in our example). To do this, turn and rotate the fabric as usual, repeat Steps 1-3 to increase one square at the start of the row (Square 4), then repeat Steps 4-5 (making sure you slip stitch to the adjacent square) to make a plain square (Square 5), then repeat Steps 4-5 to increase one square at the end of the row (Square 6). If you want to make your fabric larger, just work more increase rows by repeating Step 6 and working as many plain squares in the middle of the row as you need to. Continue until your piece is as large as you want it to be across the width and/or height (more on this later).



Step 7

If you wanted to work any of these c2c squares in a different colour, the process is very simple. You need to work the final yrh of the final stitch on the previous square in the new yarn colour. This rule applies to all squares whether they are in the middle of a row or at the end of a row.



Step 8

Then you’ll have a loop of the new colour on the hook, ready to work the next square in the new colour



Step 9

In the middle of a row, this means you can also work the joining slip stitch in the new colour.



How to decrease in corner to corner crochet

Here’s how to make a ‘decrease row’ of squares

Once your c2c fabric is the desired size (in width or height), you’ll need to begin decreasing the number of squares in each row by using some simple slip stitches. To work a decrease row, turn and rotate the fabric as usual so the working loop is in the bottom-right corner.

Step 1

To decrease at the start of a row, work 4 slip stitches up the side of the last square you worked. To do this, insert the hook into the nearest treble of the previous square, yrh, pull through the stitch and the loop on the hook. Repeat to work a slip stitch into each treble, then into the 3-ch space. The working loop will now be in the bottom-right corner of the next square you want to work (Square 7 in our practice piece).



Step 2

Continue the fabric by making a plain square as before, starting with ch3.



Step 3

Work 3tr into the 3-ch space below and ss to the top-right of the adjacent square (Square 7 is complete).



Step 4

Work more plain squares as needed, repeating Steps 2-3. To decrease at the end of the row, just stop after you’ve slip stitched to the last adjacent square.



Step 5

To work the next decrease row, turn and rotate the fabric as usual, then repeat Steps 1-4. In our example, you’ll need to slip stitch up the side of Square 8, then work Square 9. This completes our practice piece.



Step 6

To work any of these squares in a different colour, the process is the same as before, except at the start of a decrease row. Here, you can simply fasten off the old yarn and join the new yarn in the bottom-right corner of the next square you want to work, so you don’t need to slip stitch up the side of the previous square as described in the previous steps.



How to make rectangles with Corner to Corner crochet

By now, the stitch diagram on the first page of our guide should make more sense. To create our square piece, we worked increases at both ends of the rows (Squares 2-6) and then decreases at both ends of the rows (Squares 7-9). This even shaping creates a square, but you can make other fabric shapes by varying your increases and decreases.

For example, to make a rectangle, work increases at both ends of each row until the fabric is the desired size in height or width. Then continue to make increases at one end of the row and decreases at the other end of the row, as shown in the diagrams here. You can continue in this way until the rectangle is as long as you like. Colour changes work the same way for squares as for rectangles too.


Now that you’ve learn how to c2c crochet, why not take a look at our other how to crochet tutorials.