Celebrate the Coronation with this stunning Crown Block cushion designed by Paula Hope.
“The crown shape has been represented in many ways in patchwork blocks, but I wanted a project that could be hand pieced,” says Paula.
“I chose to use paper templates and use the traditional method of drawing around the templates, then adding the seam allowance. Label each template so that you know where they should be placed in the pattern. It’s important to try to use a fine marking tool for this to create accurate shapes. Keep the templates safe though, for a cheat’s tip to achieve perfect points!”
This pattern was produced in association with Today’s Quilter Magazine. Today’s Quilter is the UK’s favourite magazine for traditional quilters. Read the magazine to improve your skills with beautiful projects, inspiring photos & expert advice. Plus learn all about quilt heritage!
Read on to discover how to make your own beautiful Coronation cushion…
New to quilting? You might find it useful to check out some of our quilting guides before you begin. Take a look at our quilting for beginners, quilt kits for beginners and best sewing machine for quilting guides.
Planning a party? Find out how to plan a plastic-free Jubilee party with these tips from YourHomeStyle.
- Download the templates
- Finished size: 18in round cushion
- Fabrics Used “British Icons” available from Fabrics Galore, www.fabricsgalore.co.uk
- Transfer all red placement dots and triangles when tracing the templates.
- Larger pieces of fabric may be required if fussy cutting.
- EPP – English paper piecing.
- WS – Wrong side together.
- RST – Right sides together.
You Will Need
- Fabric A (one 7in square)
- Fabric B (one 5in square)
- Fabric C (one 5in x 12in piece)
- Fabric D (one 7in x 10in piece)
- Fabric E (One 9in x 10in piece)
- Fabric F (One 5in x 10in piece)
- Blue circular frame (14in x 14in)
- Background fabric (21in x 21in)
- Backing for cushion (21in x 26in)
- Batting (21in x 21in)
- Lining fabric (21in x 21in), As this is for the inside of the cushion, this can be muslin or a light weight fabric
- Non-fusible interfacing
- Templates for the applique, download using the link in the notes above
- Sew-in velcro (two 1/2in x 2in)
Making the block
Firstly, choose which fabrics you want to use in each area. Place each template on the back of the fabric and draw around each shape. Add a ¼in seam allowance around every shape and cut out (Fig 1). If you want to fussy cut particular areas from a fabric several times, as I did with my teapots, then you will need to create a reference mark on the fabric.
I drew a line lightly on my fabric to mark the centre of the chosen printed area e.g. A teapot. This was before drawing the template shape onto the fabric. I also marked the centre of the template, gently folding in half will suffice. All I had to do was line up my centre line of the template with the line on my fabric and each chosen area would then be the same (Fig 2). You will have to mark the front of the fabric using a pen or pencil that can easily be removed.
Follow the layout diagram to put the crown together. It will be done in sections. Some seams are curved and can be awkward to pin and then stitch.
Begin with the four (4) sections that use Templates B and C.
Take one (1) B piece and bring together the two end points of the curved line to be stitched with a pin and finger press the centre point of the seam. Do the same with the one (1) C piece, checking the rotation of the piece using the placement dots. (Fig 3).
Pin together these two pieces with B on top, using the centre points for the first pin, then pin the end points. It is easier to sew curves with the concave/inner curve on top (Fig 3). Repeat with a second C piece. Make four (4) units.
Attach the B/C units to Piece A, with A on top, using the method above to pin the curve (Fig 4).
Sew together the Piece D and F shapes, pressing the seam towards D (Fig 5). Make eight (8).
Sew one (1) Piece E to each D/F unit, pressing the seam towards D. Make eight (8) (Fig 6).
Sew together two (2) E/D/F units this time pressing the seam towards E. Repeat with the rest of the E/D/F units. Make four (4) (Fig 7).
Join these four (4) units together to make one (1) circle of crown points. Notice the seams on the back, they should all be going in one direction, press.
Using the red placement triangles, line up and pin the centre of the crown with the E Pieces of the outer section and stitch together (Fig 8).
Draw a 12in circle on the interfacing. Place it onto the Right side of the circular frame fabric and pin in place. Stitch around the circle on the line. Finally cut around the circle ¼in away from the stitched line, pinking scissors are best for this. Cut a small slit in the interfacing and turn right sides out (Fig 9). Press into the circle shape.
Fold the circle in half twice and lightly press to give quarter placement lines. Repeat with the background 21in x 21in square. Open the square out and place the circle in the centre of the background square, using the lines to centre it. Pin together and finally Slipstitch in place (Fig 10).
The crown should now be appliquéd onto the circular frame. I used a cheat’s method to make sure all the points were the same by part-inserting the paper templates as you would in EPP. Place a Template E on the back of a corresponding crown point. Line up the outer point and pin in place. Stitch or glue the paper in position around the top part of the template, as you would in EPP (Fig 11).
Repeat with the remaining E and F crown templates. Then Slipstitch the crown in place using the placement lines from the circle as reference (Fig 12).
To remove the papers, turn the work WS up, and carefully cut the background fabric ¼in in from the seam allowance all around the shape. This background excess can be removed, and the papers can be popped out.
Layer up the block with the batting and lining fabric and quilt. We echo quilted the shapes within the crown and then used overlapping circles to the background to frame the crown in the centre. Large dinner plates or a quilting hoop can be used as a circular template. We also cut the cushion front into a 18¾in circle at this point. You can keep the cushion as a square if you prefer by trimming to 18¾in x 18¾in.
For the envelope back
Cut the backing fabric into two 13in x 21in pieces. Fold a ½in seam allowance on one (1) 21in side twice, to the wrong side. Press and stitch in place (Fig 13). Make two (2) 12in x 21in pieces.
Take one backing piece and lay it right sides up. Measure 4in in from the folded/stitched side, place a pin at either end. Take the second backing piece and place it wrong side down, lining up its folded/stitched side with the 4in marking pins creating an overlap. Pin the overlap to hold the pieces together (Fig 13). It’s at this point you can add the pieces of Velcro if you choose to.
Lay the cushion front RST with the backing, centring the overlap (Fig 14).
Pin together and using the cushion shape, whether round or square, stitch together with a 3/8in seam allowance. Trim off any excess backing. Reinforce the corners if you have them and turn right sides out. Press and fill with a cushion pad.
You’re done! We hope you enjoyed making this Jubilee cushion pattern. Looking for more Jubilee projects to make? Take a look at our Platinum Jubilee cross stitch pattern.