Make your own cute Easter bunny

Transfer the Templates from Mollie Makes issue 63 onto your fabric. Cut out the pattern pieces (no seam allowance is necessary for this pattern). If you’re using a fabric with a right/wrong side, remember to reverse one of the headpieces.

Sew up the darts (about 4mm from the edge) on the two head pieces to create cupped shapes. The two pieces should mirror each other: face one piece to the left, and one piece to the right before sewing the darts.

Place your two head pieces right sides (RS) together and pin. Sew from point A to point B, following the arrow. Take extra care to line up the top darts: pin on either side of the dart, right next to the centre seam to stop them shifting.

Place the two body pieces together and pin. Sew from point C to point D. Fold one of the arms in half along the dotted line, pin and sew from point E to point F. Place one outer ear (wool) on one inner ear (cotton) (RS together if applicable), pin and sew from point G to point H. Repeat for the other arm and ear.

Clip the curves using sharp scissors, taking care not to cut through your stitch line. Use your forceps to turn your sewn pieces RS out: grab the open edge at the seam with the forceps and flip the edges over. Slowly push the fabric through to the RS. If it binds up, pull it back out a bit and use your forceps to gently open the space you’re pulling through.

Gently push small pieces of stuffing into the furthest part of each piece, slowly filling in the shape. You may find it easier to use forceps. Use the curve of your palm to stuff against. Add extra stuffing to fill out cheeks or tummies and keep an eye on the seams to make sure they’re not strained.

Close up each open seam using a ladder stitch in extra strong thread. Just before you close up each piece, stuff in just a little bit more wool to make it extra stable. Beginning on one side of the opening, sew small parallel stitches as shown in the photo. Pull your thread tight and the seam will ‘zip’ closed almost invisibly.

Join the arms to the body using a simple string joint. Using your doll needle and extra strong thread, take the needle from inside R arm, outside R arm, inside R arm, through the body, inside L arm, outside L arm, inside L arm, through the body, pulling the thread tight as you go. Repeat this process three times. If you’re planning to give this bunny to children, repeat this whole step again with a separate piece of thread to give added security. To save your hands, you can use some forceps or tweezers to push your needle through and out again.

Attach the head to the body using ladder stitch and extra strong thread. Pull the thread tight to snug the head down against the body.

Tie a half hitch knot in one end of your embroidery floss and insert your needle into the fabric, tugging until your knot disappears. Add a classic bunny nose with a single fly stitch (see our embroidery stitches guide to learn how to do this stitch!).

Mark the eyes with glass-head pins. Try them in several different positions until you have a face you’re happy with. Embroider them using small parallel lines, taking care to create a smooth, rounded shape.

Fold the ear in half lengthwise and sew the bottom edge shut using ladder stitch and extra strong thread. Ladder stitch the bottom of the ear to the head, using a straight pin to anchor it in place. Repeat for the other ear.

Sew a simple running stitch around the edge of the tail piece using extra strong thread. Pull it tight to gather the edge and create a ball shape. Knot off to secure the running stitch, then attach the tail to the backside of the body using ladder stitch.

Use a straight pin to anchor the tail in position while you sew. Double check all joints are fully secure, and your cute Easter bunny is ready to play!

 

The fronts and back of the rabbit’s jacket are worked as one piece in rows from the top-down and the sleeves are worked in the round. There’s no sewing or seaming required.The finished jacket is 5cm (2″) long from the neck downwards, approximately 10cm (4″) around the neck, 16cm (6 /8″) around the bottom, and the sleeves are  1.5cm ( /8″) along the underarm. The length can be varied by increasing or decreasing the number of rows after the arm shaping.

Foundation ch25

Row 1 (WS) dc in second ch from hook, 1dc in each st along, turn [24sts]

Row 2 (increase row) ch1 (does not count as st here and throughout), *1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * 7 more times, turn [32 sts]

Row 3 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn [32sts]

Row 4 (increase row) ch1, *1dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, turn [36sts]

Row 5 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn [36sts]

Armholes

Row 6 (RS) ch1, 1dc in each of next 5 sts, ch5, miss 5 dc, 1dc in each of next 16 sts, ch5, miss 5 dc, 1dc in each of last 5 sts, turn [26dc and 2 x 5ch-sps]

Row 7 ch1, 1dc in each st along and working 1dc in each of the ch of the 5ch-sp, turn [36sts]

Row 8 ch1, 1dc in each st along, turn. Repeat Row 8 until the jacket measures 5cm (2″) from neck edge. Break yarn and fasten off.

Sleeves

With RS facing and neck pointing downwards, join yarn to first dc on Row 5 that you missed on Row 6, ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in each of missed 5 dc, 1dc into corner, pick up and work 1dc into the unused back loops of each of the 5 ch from Row 6, 1dc into corner [12dc]

Now place stitch marker in the first st and work dc in each st in the round (in a spiral formation and not joining at the end of each round, moving stitch marker to the first st of each new round) until the sleeve measures 1.5cm ( /8″), ss to first st of last round to join. Break yarn and fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve.

Edging

With RS facing, rejoin yarn to top left edge of jacket and work dc as follows: 13 dc evenly down each front edge and 36 dc into the bottom of the jacket [62 dc] Break yarn, fasten off and darn in all ends. Block and press.